R.APHIA  AND  REED 

WEAVING 


KNAPF 


OO 


RAPHIA  AND  REED 
WEAVING 

INCLUDING   ALSO 

CAKDBOAED  AND  PAPER  CONSTRUCTION 

A  PBACTICAL  COURSE   FOR  PRIMARY  AND 
ELEMENTARY  SCHOOLS 


BY  ELIZABETH  SANBORN  KNAPP 


Head  you  may  think;  heart,  you  may  feel: 
But  hand,  you  shall  work  always" 


Thirteenth  Thousand 


MILTON  BRADLEY  COMPANY 
SPRINGFIELD,  MASS. 

NBW  FORK         PHILADELPHIA         ATLANTA         SAN  FRANCISCO 
1914 


Copyright,  1901,  o« 
Milton  Bradley  Company, 
Springfield,  Mass. 


PREFACE. 

The  object  of  this  book  is  to  give  to  class  teachers  a  com- 
plete series  of  models  arranged  in  graded  sequence,  and 
extending  from  the  Kindergarten  to  the  grammar  grade. 

Though  well  aware  that  no  book  can  be  a  substitute  for 
an  efficient  instructor,  efforts  have  been  made  to  give  the 
operations  in  minute  detail  in  order  to  assist  those  teachers 
who,  untrained  in  manual  work,  appreciate  its  value  as  an 
educational  factor,  and  believe  that  the  development  of  the 
senses,  touch  included,  and  the  training  of  the  hand  in 
artisanship,  must  be  the  root  of  mind  growth. 

This  book*  is  the  outcome  of  many  years'  experience  in 
teaching  and  study,  whereby  the  need  was  felt  for  such  a 
series  of  elementary  models  as  could  be  worked  out  in  the 
class  room  by  the  class  teacher,  and  its  chief  object  is  to  show 
that  hand  training  should  and  can  be  introduced  in  the  Kin- 
dergarten and  continued,  without  the  usual  break,  into  the 
High  School.  Although  the  models  are  not  arranged  in  cor- 
relation with  any  particular  subject,  here  may  be  found  the 
basis  from  which  can  be  constructed  such  objects  as  are 
adapted  to  any  subject  taught.  No  teacher  should  feel  con- 
fined to  a  certain  set  of  models,  yet  there  must  be  such  a 
development  in  the  gradation  as  will  make  the  work  easy  and 
delightful  to  the  young  pupils,  and  the  articles  made  of  such 
form  and  nature,  and  so  systematically  arranged,  that  there 
will  be  a  steady  growth  in  all  phases  of  the  work,  and  thus 
the  child's  instinct  for  activity  satisfied  and  cultivated,  and 
pleasure  excited  in  the  acquisition  of  skill. 


285963 


CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

OUTLINE  COUKSE  IK  CONSTRUCTIVE  WORK 5 

INTRODUCTION 7 

CONSTRUCTION  IN  PAPER  —  SERIES  1 9 

FREE  WEAVING  —  SERIES  1 18 

CONSTRUCTION  IN  PAPER  —  SERIES  II 25 

CONSTRUCTION  BY  MEASUREMENT 34 

FREE  WEAVING  —  SERIES  II 38 

CONSTRUCTION  IN  CARDBOARD  —  SECOND  YEAR 44 

REED  WEAVING 63 

CONSTRUCTION  IN  CABDBOARD  —  THIRD  YEAR 77 

COURSE  IN  RAPHIA 99 

RAPHIA  WITH  SLATS,  WIRE,  ETC Ill 


OUTLINE  COURSE  IN  CONSTRUCTIVE  WORK. 

GRADE,  ELEMENTARY  FIRST.    TWENTY  MINUTES  DAILY. 
SUBJECT.  MATERIAL.  MODEL. 

Measurement..    Rulers,  spaced  one  inch.  Lines  and  geometric  forms. 

Free  Weaving.    Paper  strips  one  inch  wide.  Gifts,  such  as  boxes,  baskets, 

frames,  cornucopias,  etc. 
Construction..    Paper  folded  into  squares.  Seed  and  flower  boxes  and 

baskets,  colonial  furniture, 

tents,  canoes,  etc. 
Knot  Work....    Cotton  Twine.  Horse  lines  and  whip,  chain 

for  whistle. 

GRADE,  ADVANCED  FIRST.    TWENTY  MINUTES  DAILY. 

Measurement . .    Rulers  spaced  one-half  inch.          Geometric  forms,  simple  sur- 
face covering. 

Free  Weaving.    Paper  strips  one-half  inch  wide.    Gifts,  as  handkerchief  box, 

napkin  ring,  blotters,  etc. 

I  Paper,  folded.  Parlor,  kitchen,  dining  room 

Construction  . .  -<  furniture  for  dolls'- houses. 

(  Oak  tag,  measured  and  cut.          Boxes,  letter  cases,  etc. 

SECOND  YEAR.    THIRTY  MINUTES  BI-WEEKLY. 

(Measurement    Rulers  spaced  one-quarter  inch  f  Wall  pockets,  portfolios, 
-<          and  and  I     pocket  books,  etc. 

(Construction    Colored bristol board.  (Boxes  and  envelopes  for 

[    school  use. 

Weaving (  Reeds,  pith,  raphia,  wire  Mats,  trays,  baskets  of  various 

•<  and  shapes  and  sizes. 

(  With  the  loom.  Strips  for  carriage  covers,  etc. 

Toy  Making Glass,  tin,  spools,  thin  wood,  etc.  Kaleidoscope,  bandilore,  shelf, 

jumping  jack,  etc. 

THIRD  YEAR.    TWENTY  MINUTES  WEEKLY. 

Construction Straw  board,  jute  board,  etc.    Portfolio,  boxes  covered, 

(Girls  and  Boys)  match  safe,  etc. 

ONE  HOUR  WEEKLY. 

( Raphia,  braided  and  sewed.  Mats,  bags,  belts,  doll  hat, 

(Girls)  •<  bonnets,  etc. 

(  Advanced  knot  work.  Hammocks,  shopping  bags. 

Construction ( Wood  (at  bench)  etc. 

(Boys)  <        and 

/  Working  drawings. 

FOURTH  YEAR.    ONE  HOUR  WEEKLY. 

Sewing  (Girls)  Bags,  aprons,  sofa  pillow  (out- 

lined),  skirt,  waist,  etc. 
Woodwork  ) 

and  V  (Boys) 

Working  Drawings. ) 

FIFTH  YEAR.    TWO  HOURS  WEEKLY. 


Cooking (Girls) 

Woodwork ) 

Bent-iron  and     V(Boys) 

Wood  Carving.    ) 


0  RAPHIA  AND   REED  WEAVING. 

THIRD  YEAR— WOOD  WORKING.  FOURTH  YEAR— WOOD  WORKING. 

1.  Boxes  for  window  gardening.  1.    Box,  square  joint,  for  window  gar- 

dening. 

2.  Cat  and  bat.  2.  Box,  planned  by  pupils. 

3.  Ring  and  ball  puzzle.  3.  Making  Bench  hook. 

4.  Game  of  dart.  4.         "        Nail  box. 

5.  Jumping  Jack— I.  II.  5.         "        Plant  rack. 

6.  Whistle— I.  II.  6.         "        Bracket. 

7.  Rack  for  "egg  farm"  (for  nature  7.        "        Shelf. 

study). 

8.  Butterfly  press.  8.        "        Loom,  for  use  in  Second 

year. 

9.  Color  whirligig.  9.         "        Weather  vane. 

10.  Pencil  box.  10.  "  Work  box. 

11.  Swing  for  doll.  11.  "  Stool. 

12.  Dominoes  and  box.  12.  "  Wheel-barrow. 

13.  Weather  vane.  13.  "  Christmas  tree  stand. 

14.  Ring  toss.  14.  "  Cart. 

15.  Stilts.  15.  "  Water  wheel. 

16.  Ant  nest.  16.  "  Key  rack. 

17.         "        Bird  house.   ' 

FOURTH  YEAR.    SEWING. 

Practice  work  on  unbleached  muslin;  running,  over-handing,  stitching, 
two  runs  and  a  back  stitch,  and  hemming  stitch. 

Practical  application;  holders,  cooking  caps,  sewing  aprons,  work  bags, 
dusters,  dish  cloth,  sofa  pillow,  (covers  cross-stitched,)  muslin  undergarments 
and  shirt  waist,  ref  ooting  and  darning  of  stockings. 

Talks  on  weaving  of  cloths — explanation  of  warp. 

FIFTH  YEAR.    WOOD  WORKING. 

1.  Making  plant  box.    (Use  of  rip  and  crosscut  saw.) 

2.  Marble  board.    (Chisel  exercise.) 

3.  Bracket.    (Practice  with  spoke  shave.) 

4.  Ladder,  or  water-tight  box.    (Application  of  housed  joint.) 

5.  Plant  stand.    (Application  of  halved  joint.) 

6.  Making  round  stick.    (Ruler.) 

7.  Knife  box. 

8.  Making  bird  house.    (Brace  and  bit  exercise.) 

9.  Letter  rack.    (Decoration,  carving.) 

10.  Stool.    (Use  of  bevel  square.) 

11.  Handkerchief  box.    (Decoration,  chip  carving.) 

12.  Glove  box.    (Carved,  relief.) 

13.  Shelf.    (Decoration,  bent  iron.) 

14.  Picture  frames.    (Decoration,  pyrography.) 

15.  Strong  box.    (Metal  bound.) 

16.  Newspaper  rack.    (Carved.) 

17.  Spool  box.    (Hinged  cover,  decorated.) 

18.  Sundial. 

19.  Plumb  bob. 


INTRODUCTION. 

In  order  to  secure  exactness  in  construction  in  cardboard 
or  wood  the  pupil  must  be  taught  to  read  and  intelligently 
use  the  ruler,  and  in  the  foregoing  series  of  lessons  two  periods 
per  week  are  devoted  to  instruction  in  measurement. 

But  ten  minutes  are  given  to  the  first  lesson.  The  idea  of 
measuring,  by  inches,  having  been  well  developed  by  using 
inch  sticks  and  tablets,  the  pupils  are  provided  with  rulers 
marked  off  in  one-inch  spaces,  and  these,  together  with  the 
sticks,  furnish  material  for  many  additional  lessons,  the  child 
being  taught  to  measure  from  any  given  point  on  the  ruler  in 
either  direction.  This  development  should  not  be  hurried; 
exercises  in  judging  and  then  testing  measurements  of  vari- 
ous tablets  and  objects  should  be  given,  and  results  should  be 
satisfactory,  if  at  the  end  of  first  school  year  the  pupils  are 
able  to  space  and  rule  both  horizontal  and  vertical  lines,  and 
cut  strips  of  paper  to  given  lengths. 

Variety  and  pleasure  are  given  by  using  black  pencils  for 
spacing  and  colored  ones  for  ruling  the  lines.  The  idea  of 
one-half  inch  is  introduced  into  the  work  of  the  next  year 
(advanced  first],  beginning  with  the  ruling  of  parallel  lines, 
then  drawing  to  measurement  various  rectangular  figures, 
introducing  in  the  latter  part  of  the  school  year  the  develop- 
ment of  simple  folding  boxes.  This  work  is  carried  on 
through  the  second  and  third  year,  by  a  succession  of  graded 
models  made  up  in  various  materials. 

For  all  cardboard  work  the  Essex  bristol  is  used.  This  is 
comparatively  inexpensive  and  may  be  secured  in  a  variety  of 
colors.  Portfolios,  frames,  pocketbooks,  etc.,  are  covered 


8  EAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 

with  leatherette,  and  a  heavy  quality  of  book-cover  paper  is 
used  for  the  construction  of  many  of  the  models. 

One  period  per  week  is  taken  for  weaving.  Harmonious 
combinations  of  two  colors  of  book-cover  paper,  cut  into 
strips  one  inch  wide  for  elementary  first,  and  one-half  inch 
for  advanced  first,  form  the  basis;  and  from  this  are  con- 
structed napkin  rings,  baskets,  picture  frames,  and  boxes  of 
various  shapes  and  sizes. 

In  the  second  and  third  year  reeds  and  raphia  are  fur- 
nished, and  by  combinations  of  both  of  these,  many  easily 
constructed  gifts,  such  as  mats,  baskets,  chairs,  etc.,  can  be 
made  and  preserved  for  use  at  Christmas  or  Easter  time. 

Two  periods  per  week  are  given  to  lessons  in  construction 
—  the  material  for  first  two  years  being  various  shades  of 
"bluefiber"  or  "eel-skin"  paper,  cut  into  squares  G^xG* 
and  folded  into  most  delightful  forms,  complete  sets  of  fur- 
niture for  dolls'  houses  being  easily  made  by  little  fingers. 
This  paper  creases  easily,  retains  its  shape  and  is  very  inex- 
pensive, thirty  cents  covering  all  cost  for  a  class  of  fifty, 
twenty  models  for  each  child. 

Variety  is  given  to  the  work  of  the  second  year  by  using 
glass,  cardboard,  thin  wood,  or  tin,  in  the  production  of 
kaleidoscopes,  bandilores,  jumping- jacks,  swings,  etc. 

The  boy  in  third  year  is  eager  and  well-fitted  to  take  up 
bench  work,  and  the  girl  to  be  initiated  into  the  cutting  and 
making  of  dolls'  garments ;  from  now  on  the  manual  training 
teacher  finds  his  pupils  equipped  with  a  fund  of  knowledge 
which  will  prove  helpful  in  the  making  and  understanding  of 
working  drawings. 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  PAPER. 

Series  I. 

ELEMENTARY  FIKST   GKADE. 
Time  twenty  minutes  bi-weekly. 

The  following  models  are  based  on  the  folded  square,  and 
constructed  from  a  stiff  quality  of  fiber,  manila,  or  hercules 
cover  paper,  the  latter  being  most  expensive.  In  the  dia- 
grams, the  light  lines  indicate  folds,  the  heavy  lines,  cuts. 

In  giving  these  lessons  the  teacher  should  place  the  lines 
on  the  board  as  she  dictates  the  folding,  first  drawing  a  large 
square  to  represent  the  square  of  paper,  then  the  horizontal 
diameter  for  first  fold,  indicating  each  additional  fold  by  a 
new  line.  After  all  folds  have  been  indicated  in  the  drawing 
with  white  crayon,  show  with  colored  crayon  the  lines  to  be 
cut,  and  by  erasing  lines,  show  which  squares  are  to  be  cut  out. 

Variety  can  be  given  to  the  manner  of  presenting  the 
lesson  by  requiring  pupils  to  work  from  the  drawing  only, 
without  dictation,  each  new  line  drawn  indicating  a  step  in 
the  work.  Power  is  thus  given  to  the  child  to  enable  him  to 
interpret  readily  the  more  difficult  drawings  which  he  will 
meet  when  he  works  from  measurement. 

Not  more  than  twenty  minutes  should  be  given  to  each 
lesson ;  and  as  it  will  take  two  periods  to  develop  some  of  the 
models,  time  may.  be  saved  by  providing  each  pupil  with  a 
portfolio,  made  from  oak  tag,  in  which  he  may  place  his  unfin- 
ished work  and  waste  pieces,  all  of  which  are  to  be  saved  and 
utilized  in  the  making  of  the  different  models.  The  muci- 
lage may  be  placed  on  several  small  dishes  on  a  table,  each 
child,  after  showing  his  work  properly  folded,  passing  to  the 


EAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


table  and  pasting  into  shape.     This  is  a  more  cleanly  and  a 
quicker  way  than  to  furnish  paste  for  each  child. 


Model  I.    Square  Box. 


Model  II.    Oblong  Box. 


Fig.  1.  Fig.  2. 

MODEL   I. — SQUAKE    BOX. 

Fold  the  paper  into  sixteen  small  squares.  (See  Fig.  1.) 
Cut  in  on  the  heavy  lines,  fold  on  the  light  lines.  Fold  into 
shape  and  paste,  using  mucilage. 

MODEL   II. — OBLONG    BOX. 

Cut  off  four  squares  on  the  right  side  or  from  top.  (See 
Fig  2.)  Indicate  this  on  blackboard  by  erasing.  Cut  in  on 
heavy  lines,  fold  into  shape  and  paste.  Put  the  mucilage  on 
both  sides  of  the  center  square  and  bring  the  ends  around, 
one  inside  and  one  outside  the  center. 


\ 


Model  III.    Cubical  Box. 


Model  IV.    Comb  Case. 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  PAPEE. 


11 


MODEL  III.  —  CUBICAL   BOX. 

Cut  as  indicated  by  full  lines,  leaving  nine  squares, 
3. )     Fold  into  shape  and  paste. 


(Fig. 


Fig.  4. 


Fig.  3. 

MODEL  IV.  —  COMB    CASE. 

Cut  out  upper  corner  square.     (Fig.  4.)     Cut  in  on  full 
lines  and  fold  into  shape.     Perforate  back  for  hanging. 


\ 


\ 


o    o 


Model  V.    Match  Safe. 


Fig.  5. 


Model  VI.    Table. 


Fig.  6. 


Fig.  7. 


RAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 


MODEL   V.  —  MATCH    SAFE. 

Cut  off  four  squares  on  the  right  side.  (Fig.  5.)  Cut 
out  the  upper  corner  squares.  Cut  in  on  the  remaining  full 
lines  and  fold  into  shape.  Perforate  for  hanging. 

MODEL   VI. — TABLE. 

Cut  and  fold  as  for  Model  I.  (Fig  6.),  using  for  legs  the 
four  squares  cut  away  from  Model  V.  (Fig.  7.)  Fold  each 
of  these  squares  on  the  diagonal,  and  glue  them  into  the  cor- 
ners of  the  inverted  box.  For  the  tablecloth,  fold  a  piece  of 
thin  white  paper  into  sixteen  squares  and  then  cut  off  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  around  the  edge.  The  cloth  may  be 
fringed  if  desired. 


Model  VII.  Fig.  8. 

MODEL   VII.  —  CHAIE. 

Cut  as  indicated  at  Fig.  8.  Fold  the  corner  squares  back, 
and  bring  the  back  of  the  chair  up  into  position.  Fold  the 
remaining  two  squares  back  and  strengthen  the  back  of  the 
chair  by  using  the  four  squares  cut  away,  folded  through  the 
width  and  glued  to  the  back. 

MODEL   VIII. — LUNCH    BOX. 

Two  squares  of  paper,  6  ins.  x  6  ins.  are  required  for  this 
model.  For  the  box  construct  as  in  Fig.  2,  Model  II. 


Model  VIII.    Lunch  Box. 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  PAPER. 


13 


Pattern  for  the  cover  will  be  found  in  Fig.  10.     For  the 
curved  lines  trace  around  a  one-inch  semi- circular  tablet. 


Fig.  10. 


Fig.  11. 


Fig.  12. 


\ 


\ 


MODEL  IX.  — HALL   BENCH. 

But  one  square  need  be  given  to  pupil 
for  the  construction  of  this  model,  as  the 
piece  cut  from  Fig.  11  will  form  Fig.  12. 
Cut  out  corner  according  to  diagram 
and  then  cut  in  for  laps,  fold  into  posi- 
tion and  paste,  using  Fig.  12  for  back 
Hail  Bench.  and  arms. 

MODEL   X.  — SLED. 

Cut  off  four  squares  as  indicated  in  Fig.  13,  then  fold 
each  outside  square  to  half  its  width,  and  cut  off  the  half  at 
upper  end, ;  then  fold  back  for  runners  and  cut  curved  lines  as 
indicated,  using  Fig.  14  for  brace. 


\ 


Model  X.    Sled.  Model  XI.    Butter  Dish. 

MODEL   XI.  —  BUTTER   DISH. 

But  one  square  is  needed  for  this  model ;  fold  and  cut  as 
indicated  in  Fig.  15,  folding  the  diagonal  edge  back  to  a  and 
cut  off  the  projecting  ends  after  pasting. 


14 


RAPHIA  AND   REED   WEAVING. 


MODEL    XII. — CORNER    SHELF. 

Fold  and  cut  as  indicated  at  Fig.  16,  using  for  top  of  the 
shelf  two  of  the  squares  cut  away,  curving  this  piece  to  suit 
the  fancy  of  the  pupil. 


Fig.  13. 


Fig.  14. 


Fig.  15. 


Model  XII.    Corner  Shelf. 


Model  XIII.    Side  Shelf. 


Fig.  16. 


Fig.  18. 


Fig.  17. 
MODEL    XIII.  —  SIDE    SHELF. 

But  one  whole  square  need  be  passed  for  this  model,  using 
for  the  brackets  the  piece  cut  away  from  Fig.  16. 

Fold  Fig.  17  on  center  line,  and  then  fold  up  for  top  half 
and  down  for  bottom  half  of  the  back,  glue  into  shape  and 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  PAPER. 


15 


then  add  the  brackets  which  are  to  be  cut  and  folded  as  indi- 
cated in  Fig.  18. 

MODEL   XIV.  —  CHAIR. 

Use  one  square  for  this  model.  Cut  as  indicated  at  Fig. 
19,  fold  into  position  and  paste.  The  paper  may  be  so  folded 
as  to  bring  the  two  arms  together  and  then  cut  into  curves,  if 
desired. 


<D 


Model  XIV.    Chair.  Model  XV.    Carriage. 


Fig.  20. 


Fig.  19. 


Fig.  21. 


Fig.  22.    Handle. 


O  MODEL   XV.  —  CARRIAGE. 

Two  squares  will  be  required  for  this  model. 
Fig.  23.      The  wheels  may  be  cut  from  extra  piece  in  Fig.  19. 
Cut  and  fold  Figs.  20  and  21  as  indicated.     Use  for  the 
handle  the  pieces  cut  away,  folding  the  handle  double  and 
making  it  eight  squares  in  length.     Glue  this  to  shape  and 
place  in  position  before  the  top  of  the  carriage  is  glued  at  the 


16 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


sides.  Use  toothpicks  for  axles  and  peas  for  Tiubs.  If  the 
back  wheels  are  made  larger  than  the  front  ones,  then  the 
back  axle  must  be  placed  higher  than  the  front  one. 

MODEL    XVI. HOUSE. 

Bnt  one  square  is  used  for  this  model.  Cut  and  fold  as 
indicated  at  Fig.  24,  the  dotted  lines  indicating  a  fold,  into 
half  widths;  glue  these  folds  back. 

MODEL    XVII.  —  COW    SHED. 

Fold  and  cut  as  indicated  at  Fig.  25.  Glue  into  position 
and  then  cut  off  that  part  of  the  end  which  extends  above 
the  roof. 


Model  XVI.    House. 


Model  XVII.    Cow  Shed. 


Fig.  24. 
MODEL   XVIII.  —  BARK. 

Use  two  squares  for  this 
model.  Cut  and  fold  as  indi- 
cated at  Fig.  26.  A  roof  may 
be  added  as  indicated  at  Fig. 

27. 


Fig.  25. 


Model  XVIII.    Barn. 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  PAPER. 


17 


MODEL   XIX.  — HEtf  COOP. 

Cut  as  indicated  at  Fig.  28,  folding  the 
pattern  as  indicated  by  dotted  lines  before 


Model  xix.  Hen  Coop,  cutting  out  the  slats. 


Fig.  26. 


Fig.  27. 


Fig.  28. 


FREE  WEAVING, 

Series  /. 
ELEMENTARY  FIRST  YEAR. 

Material  required  for  entire  course  of  twelve  models,  five 
sheets  of  48-pound  laid  antique  book- cover  paper  (of  contrast- 
ing colors)  cut  into  strips  one  inch  wide. 

MODEL   I.       GROUND   FORM    OE   FOUNDATION'. 

Material.  — •  Two  strips  of  red  or  scarlet. 
Three  strips  of  fawn. 

Fold  red  strips  across  the  width  through  the  middle. 
Fold  the  fawn  color  through  the  middle,  tear  and  fold  again 
and  lay  these  pieces  on  the  desk. 

Lay  the  two  folded  red  strips  on  the  desk;  long  edge 
extending  from  left  to  right,  with  upper  piece  extending 
about  two  inches  beyond  left  end  of  the  lower  piece,  open 
ends  toward  the  left ;  have  the  open  ends  of  the  lower  piece 
toward  the  right.  Much  future  trouble  will  be  avoided  if  the 
teacher  requires  this  same  arrangement  at  each  lesson. 

Now  taking  one  of  the  short  pieces,  or  weavers,  in  the 
right  hand,  beginning  at  the  top  and  left  end  pass  the  two 
ends  of  the  weaver  outside  the  top  and  inside  the  lower 
double  strip,  drawing  the  loop  ends  up  close ;  now  with  the 
second  weaver  work  in  the  same  manner  from  the  bottom 
upward;  then  with  another  weaver  work  from  the  top  and  so 
on,  until  all  the  strips  are  used.  The  teacher  may  easily 
judge  if  all  weaving  is  correct  by  asking  the  pupil  to  hold  up 
the  work  and  at  the  same  time  turn  it,  after  each  weaver  is 
inserted,  as  both  sides  will  be  alike  if  correctly  woven. 

The  work  is  tightened  by  palling  the  opposite  ends  of 
the  horizontal  strips,  and  every  two  of  the  weavers,  until  the 
work  is  flat. 

To  hold  the  weaving  securely  in  place,  open  the  free  ends 
and  place  the  paste  inside,  using  a  thin,  flat  pasting  stick. 


20 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


MODEL   II.  —  BOOK   MARK. 

Material.  —  Two  strips 
of  fawn.  Four  strips  of 
red. 

(Waste  of  material  will 
be  avoided  if  the  two  colors 
are  used  alternately  in  the 
long  strips.) 

Weave  as  before,  and 
after  pasting,  notch  the 
ends  of  the  weavers  close 
to  the  long  strip,  leaving 
the  free  ends  of  the  long 
strip  about  three  inches 
in  length.  Notch  these 
also. 


FREE   WEAVING. 


21 


MODEL   III. — NAPKIN    RING. 

Material.  —  Two  strips  of  red,  four  strips  of  fawn. 

Using  fawn  for  weavers,  proceed  as  for  bookmark,  and 
after  tightening  and  pasting,  cut  all  weavers  close  to  the  long 
strips,  and  cut  the  end  of  the  long  strips  so  as  to  leave  1\  inches 
extending.  Out  corners 
from  these  ends,  and  bring- 
ing the  two  ends  of  weaving 
together  insert  each  free 
end  under  the  second  square 
on  the  opposite  end.  Glue 
should  be  used  to  hold  this 
in  position,  placed  under 
the  two  outside  squares. 

MODEL   IV.  —  MATCH   SAFE. 

Material.  —  One  strip  of  red,  two  strips  of  fawn. 

Use  red  for  horizontal  strips,  tearing  into  two  and  folding. 

Make  four  weavers  from  other  strips.     Insert  the  weavers  and 

cut  close  all  free  ends  at 
the  top.  Fold  at  each 
square,  pressing  flat  to  se- 
cure sharp  edges.  Insert 
the  long  ends  into  the  oppo- 
site side  and  shape  to  ob- 
long box.  Overlap  the  free 
ends  on  the  bottom,  cut  to 
length  and  glue.  Cut  from 
cardboard  of  some  harmo- 
nious color,  a  piece  4x3 
inches,  and  glue  the  box  to 
this  near  the  lower  left  cor- 
ner. Cut  a  piece  of  No.  1 
sandpaper  1x2  inches  and 
fasten  it  to  the  right  of  the 

box.     Perforate  the  top  of  cardboard  in  two  places  and  pass 

ribbon  through  for  hanging. 


i- 


1 


RAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 


MODEL   V.  —  EULEE. 

Material.  —  Four  strips  of  scarlet,  six  strips  of  fawn. 
Glue  together  each  two  of  the  scarlet  strips,  and  use  the 
fawn  for  weavers.     Weave  strip  twelve  inches  long,  and  after 


fastening  the  weaving  cut  all  ends  close  and  mark  each  square 
in  numbers  from  one  to  twelve. 

Before  allowing  the  pupil  to  take  this  model  home,  teach 
its  use  in  measuring. 

MODEL   VI. — CUBICAL   BOX. 

Material.  —  Two  strips  of  fawn,  four  strips  of  scarlet. 

Using  scarlet  for  weavers,  make  a  strip  eight  inches  long. 
Glue  the  ends,  and  cut  close  all  weavers  on  the 
top  edge.  Fold  at  every  two  squares,  creasing 
well,  and  then  join  the  ends  by  inserting  under 
opposite  squares.  Now  interlace  the  other  ends 
of  the  weavers  for  bottom  of  the  box,  and  glue 
to  position. 

MODEL  VII. — PICTUEE   FEAME. 

Weave  as  for  ruler, 
making  four  strips, 
each  twelve  inches  in 
length.  Cross  ends 
for  frame,  and  fasten 
at  each  corner  with 
round  head  Magill  fas- 
teners. Cut  a  piece  of 
cardboard  to  size,  and 
glue  to  the  back,  leav- 
ing an  opening  at  the 
top.  In  this  card- 
board perforate  holes, 
through  which  pass 
ribbon  for  hanging. 


FREE   WEAVING. 


23 


MODEL   VIII.  —  BOUND   BOX. 

Material.  —  Four  strips  of  fawn. 

Seven  strips  of  scarlet. 

After  gluing  the  fawn  strips  so  as  to  make  two  long  ones, 
use  the  scarlet  for  weavers  and 
make  a  strip  fourteen  inches 
long.  Fasten  the  ends  of  the 
weavers  at  the  top  and  cut  close. 
Bring  the  opposite  ends  of  the 
woven  piece  together,  and  fasten 
by  inserting  loose  ends  under  the 
opposite  square.  Bend  up  the 
remaining  ends  of  weavers  for 
the  bottom  of  the  box,  and  cut  two  circular  pieces  of  card- 
board to  fit  the  bottom ;  glue  one  outside  and  one  inside  the 
box. 

MODEL   IX. OBLONG   BOX. 

Material.  —  Six  strips  of  scarlet. 
Eleven  strips  of  fawn. 

Weave  band  sixteen  inches 
long  for  box  (cover  separate). 
Fasten  all  weavers  on  the  top 
edge  and  cut  close.  Count  two 
inches  from  one  end  and  fold  for 
the  end  of  the  box;  then  six  inch- 
es for  one  side,  and  again  two 
for  the  end.  Glue  into  shape  and 
fit  oblong  piece  of  cardboard  both 
inside  and  outside  of  box.  Weave 
a  strip  six  inches  long  for  the 
cover;  punch  holes  one  inch  in 

from  both  ends  of  the  cover  and  the  box  and  hinge  with 

ribbon. 


EAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


Material. 


MODEL   X.  —  BOX   WITH   HANDLE. 

—  Sixteen  strips  of  fawn. 

Six  strips  of  scarlet. 

Using  fawn  for  weavers  make  a  band  twenty  inches  in 

length.  Cut  the  top  ends 
close  and  glue  to  shape,  five 
inches  on  a  side.  Fit  a  dou- 
ble bottom  of  cardboard  and 
weave  the  strips  for  the  han- 
dle, fastening  the  handle  to 
the  box  by  using  Magill  pa- 
per fasteners. 

MODEL   XI.  —  CUBICAL   BOX   WITH   COVER   WOVEN   ON. 

Material.  —  Five  strips  of  scarlet. 
Three  strips  of  fawn. 

Use  scarlet  for  weavers,  but  keep  two  of 
them  full  length,  tearing  the  others  into  halves 
and  folding.  Weave  first  with  four  short  weav- 
ers, then  insert  two  long  ones.  Do  not  pull 
these  two  down  close  but  let  them  remain  far 
enough  above  the  woven  strip  to  allow  the  inser- 
tion of  two  fawn-colored  strips,  and  then  pull 
down  to  position  and  insert  the  other  two  weav- 
ers. Fasten  into  shape  and  form  the  bottom 
as  for  Model  VI. 

This  makes  a  very  pretty  candy  box  and  the  cover  may  be 
fastened  by  tying  a  band  of  ribbon  round  the  box. 

MODEL   XII.  — PINCUSHION. 

Material.  —  Two  strips  of  fawn. 
Five  strips  of  scarlet. 

Using  scarlet  for  weavers,  make  a  strip 
ten  inches  long.  Shape  as  for  circular  box 
and  fit  double  bottom  of  cardboard.  Make 
a  simple  form  of  cushion  to  fit  this  box  and 
glue  it  to  position. 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  PAPER. 

Series  II. 
ADVANCED  FIEST  GRADE. 

MODEL   I.  —  ASH    CART. 

Using  one  square  of  paper,  6  in.  x  6  in. ,  fold  and  cut  as 
indicated  at  Fig.  1.  As  the  wheels  are  too  large  to  be  cut 
from  waste  pieces,  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  each  pupil  one- 


Model  i. 


I 


^/v 


A 


V 


Fig.  1. 


half  a  square  of  paper  from  which  the  wheels  may  be  cut. 
This  piece  is  not  to  be  folded  into  squares.  Use  toothpicks 
for  axle  and  thills  and  peas  for  hubs. 


Model  II.    Tray. 

Cut  as  indicated  at  Fig.  2. 
Fold  back  at  dotted  lines  and 
bring  laps  into  position,  placing 
them  under  the  edge  folded  down. 

Fig.  2. 
MODEL   III. — BUTTON   BOX. 

Cut  as  indicated  at  Fig.  3,  bring  laps  into  position  and 
paste. 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


MODEL   IV.  —  EXPRESS   WAGON. 

Fold  and  cut  square  6  in.  x  6  in.,  as  indicated  at  Fig.  4, 
using  for  Fig.  5  one  of  the  pieces  cut  away,  and  making  the 
seat  from  the  other  piece.  The  depth  of  the  box  is  but  one- 


Model  III.    Button  Box. 


Fig.  3. 


Model  IV.     Express  Wagon. 


NA 


Fig.  5.  Fig.  4. 

half  the  width  of  the  square.  Use  toothpick  for  handle  and 
peas  for  hubs.  A  cheap  quality  of  collar  button  may  be  used 
for  hubs,  passing  them  through  the  wagon  box  from  the 
inside,  and  then  through  the  wheel. 


MODEL  V.  —  SLEIGH   WITH   BOX. 

Fold  and  cut  the  sleigh  as  indicated  at  Fig.  6,  and  the 


CONSTRUCTION    IN   TAPER. 


27 


box  at  Fig.  7.     Pass  the  end  of  a  piece  of  cord  eight  inches 
long  through  the  holes,  and  fasten. 


\ 


Fig.  6.  Fig.  7. 

MODEL  VI. — EGG   BOX. 

Out  box  as  indicated  at  Fig.  8,  and  coyer  at  Fig.  9,  using 
one-inch  semi-circular  tablets  for  tracing  thumb  places. 

Use  for  partitions  pieces  cut  away  from  Figs.  6  and  7,  and 
cut  as  indicated  at  Fig.  10. 


Fig.  8. 


Fig.  9. 


Model  VI.    Egg  Box. 


Fig.  10. 


RAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 


MODEL  VII.  —  SHOPPING   BAG. 

Fold  and  cut  as  indicated  at  Fig.  11,  saving  for  handle 
the  piece  cut  away,  and  folding  it  in  the  middle — lengthwise. 
Cut  and  use  one  piece  for  handle,  folding  it  lengthwise  and 


Model  VII 


Fig.  11. 


using  double.  In  pasting  bring  the  inside  corners  of  outside 
squares  together  and  place  the  middle  square  inside  these  two, 
with  the  ends  of  the  handle  between. 

MODEL  VIII. — STOVE. 

Use  for  this  model  three 
squares  of  Uack  paper  6x6 
inches. 


Model  Vm.    Stove. 


ill 


Fig.  12. 


Fold  and  cut  as  indicated  at  Fig.  12  for  body  of  the  stove, 
making  lines  for  grate  with  a  red  lead  pencil.  Indicate,  with 
black  pencil,  the  hinges  and  knobs  on  oven  doors. 


CONSTRUCTION  IN 


Cut  and  fold  hearth  as  indicated  at  Fig.   13,  showing 
hinges  and  knobs  on  doors.     Bring  Fig.  12  into  shape  and 


S 


Fig.  13. 


Fig.  14. 


Fig.  15. 


paste.  Use  Fig.  14  for  the  bottom  of  the  stove,  fastening  it 
onto  the  inside  of  front  and  back  of  stove,  so  as  not  to  inter- 
fere with  the  use  of  the  oven.  Place  the  hearth  in  position 
and  fasten,  then  open  front  doors.  Cut  and  fold  the  pipe 
as  indicated  at  Fig.  15  and  glue  to  the  stove. 

MODEL  IX.  —  TROLLEY  CAR. 

Cut  as  indicated  at  Fig. 
16,  cutting  out  for  windows, 
or  the  windows  may  be 
indicated  by  pencil  lines 
and  not  cut  out.  Cut  the 
bottom  of  the  car  as  indi- 
cated at  Fig.  17.  Use  tooth- 
picks for  axle  and  peas  for 
hubs,  making  wheels  from 
the  piece  cut  away  from 


J 


DDDDDDD 


Model  IX. 


u<^c/ 


Fig.  16. 


JUfi 


Fig.  17. 


RAPHIA   AND    REED   WEAVING. 


Fig.  16,  and  the  pole  from  the  other  waste  piece,  fastening 
it  to  the  car  as  indicated  in  the  drawing. 


t 


Fig.  18. 


Fig.  20. 


MODEL  X.  —  BED. 

Two  squares  are  needed  for  this  model,  using 
for  the  legs  the  pieces  cut  away  from  previous 


Fig.  19. 

Cut  and  fold  the  body  of  the  bed  as  indicated  at  Fig.  18, 
making  it  three  squares  in  length 
and  two  in  width.  Fold  the  legs 
as  indicated  at  Fig.  19  and  glue 
body  and  legs  to  position. 

Cut  Fig.  20  into  halves,  as 
indicated  by  full  line,  making  the 
headboard  four  squares  in  length 
(before  folding),  and  the  foot- 
board three  squares.  Now  fold 
both  pieces  across  the  width  and 
use  these  doubled  pieces  for  the 
head  and  footboard  and  glue  to 
place.  Both  these  pieces  may  be 
cut  across  the  top,  to  any  desired 
Model  x.  Bed.  shape. 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  PAPER. 

MODEL  XI. — WASHSTAND. 


31 


Fig.  21. 


Fig.  22. 


E 


Fig.  23. 


\ 


\ 


Model  XI.    Washstand. 


Three  squares  are  needed  for 
this  model. 

For  the  body,  fold  and  cut  as 
indicated  at  Fig.  21.  Bring  laps 
into  position  and  glue  to  place. 

Fold  and  cut  two  models  as 
indicated  at  Fig.  22.  Glue  into 
shape,  and  stand  the  two  oblong 
boxes  thus  formed  on  end  inside 
the  square  box  formed  from  Fig. 
21.  Locate  the  points  for  the 
knobs  and  here  place  two  round- 
head paper  fasteners.  Shoe  but- 
tons may  be  used  instead.  Shape 
the  back  as  indicated  at  Fig.  2? 
and  glue  to  the  body  of  the  wast 
stand. 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


\ 


MODEL  XII. — DRESSING  TABLE. 

Four  squares  are  needed  for  this  model. 

Fold  and  cut  the  body  as  indicated  at 
Fig.  21,  and  the  two  drawers  at  Fig.  22. 
X  Glue  to  shape 

and  place  the 
oblong  boxes 
horizontally 
insid  e  the 
square  box, 
using  paper 
fasteners  for 
knobs. 

For  the 
back,  fold  as 
indicated  at 


si 


I 


\ 


0 


Fig.  24. 


Model  XII. 
Dressing  Table. 


Fig.  24,  and  then  turn  one  thickness  down  toward  the  front 
from  point  X.  This  will  form  a  square  on  its  diagonal.  Cut 
away  the  middle  portion  of  this  square  leaving  about  one-fourth 
of  an  inch  around  the  edge.  This  forms  the  width  of  the 
frame.  Inside  this  insert  a  square  of  tin  foil  to  form  the  mirror. 

MODEL  XIII.  —  GO  CAET. 

But  one  square  is  used  for  this. 
Fold  and  cut  as  indicated  in  Fig.  25. 


Fig.  25. 


Model  XIII.    Go  Cart. 


CONSTRUCTION    IX   PAPER. 


33 


Turn  up  the  squares  forming  the  back  and  glue  the  laps 
into  position.  Crease  the  step  into  shape  and  add  toothpick 
for  axle,  using  peas  for  hubs.  Save  the  four  squares,  cut  away 
from  one  side,  for  the  handle.  Cut  this  through  the  middle, 
lengthwise.  Fold  each  piece  through  the  middle,  lengthwise, 
join  the  two  pieces,  bend  for  the  handle,  and  glue  into  posi- 
tion. Use  the  squares  cut  from  the  corners  in  making  the 
wheels. 

MODEL   XIV. — CEADLE. 

Two  squares  are  needed  to  form  the 
body  of  this  model.  Fold  and  cut  two 
forms  as  indicated  at  Fig.  26.  Glue  to 


Model  XIV.    Cradle. 


Fig.  26. 

shape  and  stand  one,  on  end,  inside  the  other  one.  This  will 
form  the  hood.  Variety  may  be  given  to  the  shape  of  the 
k>dy  of  this  model.  For  the  rockers  divide  one  six-inch 
square  into  four  smaller  ones,  and  on  one  of  these  trace  a 
circle,  using  a  two-inch  tablet.  Cut  to  line,  fold  through 
the  middle,  and  cut.  It  will  be  necessary  to  cut  away  that 
portion  of  the  rocker  touching  the  floor  in  order  to  have  the 
cradle  stand  upright. 


CONSTRUCTION  BY  MEASUKEMENT. 


ADVANCED  FIEST. 

Second  School  Year. 

After  having  worked  out  many  lessons  in  paper  construc- 
tion by  folding,  the  pupil  is  led  to  pattern-making  with  the 
use  of  the  ruler,  and  here  the  lap  is  introduced.  As  yet, 
however,  we  keep  this  troublesome  feature  of  construction  a? 
large  as  possible,  since  it  is  in  the  execution  of  fine  details 
that  the  child  becomes  discouraged.  Th6se  models  have  been 
worked  out  by  pupils  in  the  advanced  first  year.  By  previous 
training  they  have  become 
familiar  with  the  use  of 
the  ruler  and  are  able 
to  draw  lines  to  given 
lengths  and  lay  out  simple 
surface  coverings.  The 
forms,  being  made  from 
drawing  paper,  are  easily 
folded  on  the  line,  no 
scoring  being  necessary, 
as  is  the  case  when  using 
bristol  board. 

All  patterns  are  based 
on  the  square,  and  are 
purposely  made  very  simple  in  order  to  introduce  decoration, 
using  water  colors  or  colored  lead  pencils.  The  squares  vary 
in  size  from  1^  to  2  inches.  The  rulers  are  marked  in  one 
inch  and  half -inch  spaces. 

In  Fig.  1  the  squares  are  three  inches  across.  The 
rulers  are 'placed  on  the  edge  of  the  paper  and  the  spaces 
marked  here,  with  black  pencil,  as  a  finer  dot  may  be  made 
with  the  black  than  with  a  colored  one.  The  cross  lines  are 
drawn  with  the  colored  pencil  and  the  nine  squares  needed  are 


Fig.  1. 


CONSTRUCTION  BY  HBA8UBBMENT. 


Fig.  2. 


now  cut  away.     Cut  away 

the  triangles  as  indicated 
in  the  drawing  and  deco- 
rate with  diagonal  lines. 

In  Fig.  2  the  squares 
are  two  inches  in  size. 
Proceed  as  in  Fig.  1  and 
decorate  as  in  the  drawing. 

In  Fig.  3  the  size  of 
the  square  is  one  and  one- 
half  inches.  Proceed  as 
in  Fig.  1.  For  decora- 
tion add  the  diagonal  lines 
and  at  the  points  of  inter- 
section cross  with  a  line 
extending  one-half  inch 
in  each  direction. 


Fig.  3. 


8G 


RAPHIA  AND   REED   WEAVING. 


Fig.  4  is,  when  completed,  like  Fig.  1,  but  differs  in 
manner  of  development.  Cut  in  on  the  heavy  lines.  Deco- 
rate as  indicated  in  the  drawing. 


\  / 
/  % 

^7"  / 

s   \ 

\   / 

/  \ 

\    / 
/    N 

/tad* 

Fig.  4. 


Fig.  5.  Size  of  squares,  2  inches  by  2  inches.  Cut  in 
on  heavy  lines.  Suggestion  for  decoration  is  given  in  tie 
drawing. 


Fig.  5. 

Fig.  6.  Size  of  squares,  3  inches  by  3  inches.  Cut  in 
on  heavy  lines  for  the  bottom,  and  the  cover.  De  jorate  as 
suggested  in  the  drawing. 

Fig.  7.  Size  of  squares,  2  inches  "by  2  inches.  Cut  in 
on  heavy  lines  to  form  the  cover  and  the,  Bottom.  {Sugges- 
tion for  decoration  given  in  the  drawing, 


1!V    MEASUREMENT. 


Fig  6. 


\  / 

\          / 

\         / 

\     / 

/    \ 

/_     \ 

/         \ 

/      \ 

\     7 

\          / 

\     7 

\      7 

/    N 

/         \ 

/     \ 

/      \ 

\    / 

\          / 

\      7 

V    / 

< 

/     V 

/         \ 

/     \ 

/      \ 

N 

5-         j 

\         / 

\     / 

\      / 

/        \ 

/       \ 

/     \ 

/    ,\ 

Fig.  7. 

When  tliest?  jiiodels  (VI.  and  VII.)  are  used  for  candy 
boxes,  they  &re  made  more  attractive  by  the  addition  of  a 
ribbon  band. 


FREE  WEAVING. 

Series  II. 
ADVANCED  FIRST  GRADE. 

Second  School  Year. 

Having  previously  worked  out  Series  I. ,  the  pupils  have 
acquired  a  deftness  of  hand  which  will  enable  them  to  take  up 
these  more  difficult  models.  Pupils,  to  whom  the  work  is 
new,  often  enter  at  the  beginning  of  a  school  year,  and  it  is 
always  well  to  review  the  "ground  forms"  or  foundation 
work  given  in  Series  I.  Review  also  the  book  marker. 

In  this  series  use  book-cover  paper  in  two  contrasting 
colors,  or  in  tint  and  shade  of  the  same  color.  Have  the 
paper  cut  into  strips  one-half  inch  wide. 

MODEL   I. — PICTURE   FRAME. 

This  frame  is  but  two  strips  in  width,  but  at  the  end  of 
the  series  it  may  again  be  introduced  four  or  six  strips  wide. 

Fold  four  strips  of  each  color  through  the  middle  across 
the  width.  Lay  the  light  strips  horizontally  across  the  desk, 
with  the  open  and  closed  ends  alternating  at  the  sides.  With 
the  dark  strips  proceed  to  weave  under  and  over,  leaving  all 
ends  long,  i.e.,  do  not  draw  up  any  ends.  This  will  form  a 
square  with  long  ends  on  all  sides  as  in  Detail  I.  Now  sepa- 
rate these  squares  so  that  four  will  come  on  each  corner  with 
a  loose  band  between.  The  distance  between  each  set  of 
squares  should  be  but  little  over  three  inches.  The  ends  may 
now  be  drawn  so  that  the  closed  end  is  nearly  to  the  outside 
edge  of  the  frame. 

It  will  now  be  observed  that  the  light  and  dark  strips  are 
on  opposite  sides  of  the  frame.  Take  twelve  pieces  of  each 
color  and  fold  crosswise  through  the  middle.  Weave  these  in 
and  out  the  space  between  the  corner  squares,  placing  the  dark 
on  the  side  with  the  light  strips  and  vice  versa.  Now  tighten 


i«jcail  T.    Picture  Fran«s. 


40 


RAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 


all  the  strips,  being  careful  to  not  pull  the  opening  for  the 
picture  out  of  square.  Glue  cardboard  to  the  back  of  this 
frame,  leaving  an  opening  at  the  top  into  which  the  picture 
is  to  be  slipped.  An  easel  back  may  be  provided,  or  a  cord 
used  for  hanging.  The  back  may  be  so  glued  on  as  to  permit 
the  hanging  of  the  frame  with  the  square  on  its  diagonal. 


Detail  II.    Picture  Frame. 


FREE  WEAVING.  41 

Oblong  frames  may  be  made  in  the  same  manner  by  insert- 
ing more  strips  on  the  sides  than  across  the  top. 


Model  I.    Picture  Frame. 
SQUARE    AND    OBLONG   MATS. 

Mats  of  different  sizes  and  shapes  may  be  woven  and  util- 
ized in  various  ways.  Either  by  using  them  for  lamp-mats, 
etc. ,  or  for  mounts  for  calendars,  thermometers,  blotters,  etc. 
For  the  square  mats,  have  all  paper  strips  of  the  same  length. 

Difficulty  will  at  first  be  experienced  in  having  the  pupils 
keep  the  strips  from  slipping  out  of  position,  while  the  work 


42  RAPHIA  AND   REED  WEAVING. 

is  being  started,  but  this  is  soon  overcome,  and  as  so  little 
preparation  of  materials  is  required,  this  form  of  manual  train- 
ing may  be  used  for  busy  work. 

CORNUCOPIA. 

Weave  a  mat  ten  squares  each  way.  Perforate  two  adja- 
cent edges.  Bring  the  opposite  corners  together,  and  lace  with 
narrow  ribbon,  finishing  with  a  bow. 

Double  cornucopias  may  be  formed  by  weaving  an  oblong 
mat,  twenty  squares  by  ten,  and  bringing  both  lower  corners 
up  to  the  middle  of  the  top  edge;  fasten  in  position. 

BLOTTER   BACK. 

Weave  an  oblong  mat  ten  squares  long  and  four  or  six  wide. 
Cut  an  oblong  piece  of  blotting  paper,  in  size  one-half  inch 
shorter  and  one-half  inch  narrower  than  the  woven  mat,  to 
which  it  should  be  glued. 

CALENDAR    BACK. 

Weave  a  square  mat  six  squares  by  six,  and  fasten  the  cal- 
endar to  this,  choosing  such  size  as  will  leave  a  margin  of  one 
square  all  around  the  calendar.  Oblong  mats  may  be  woven 
to  fit  oblong  calendar  pads. 

THERMOMETER   BACK. 

Weave  an  oblong  mat  four  squares  wide  and  six  squares 
long,  using  paper  strips  one-half  inch  wide.  Fasten  the  ther- 
mometer to  this  back  by  sewing  through  the  holes,  and,  if 
desired,  a  bow  may  be  tied  here. 

COVER  FOR  NEEDLE  BOOK. 

Weave  an  oblong  mat,  making  it  eight  one-half  inch  strips, 
or  four  one-inch  strips  wide,  and  twelve  one-half  inch,  or  six 
one-inch  strips  in  length.  Fold  through  the  middle  across  the 
width.  Cut  the  leaves  from  white  flannel  and  have  the  edges 
notched.  Open  the  cover,  lay  the  leaves  in  position  and  per- 
forate in  three  places.  Pass  a  narrow  ribbon  through  these 
holes,  bring  both  ends  to  the  outside,  and  here  form  a  bow. 


FREE   WEAVING.  43 

COVER   FOB   MEMORANDUM   BOOK. 

Weave  an  oblong  mat,  making  it  twelve  squares  in  length 
and  eight  in  width. 

Fold  this  through  the  middle,  across  the  width  to  form  the 
cover. 

Cut,  for  the  leaves,  oblong  pieces  of  white  paper,  in  width 
one-half  inch  narrower  and  in  length  one-half  inch  shorter  than 
the  oblong  forming  the  cover.  Fold  these  and  place  inside  the 
cover.  Now  perforate  this  book  in  two.  places,  pass  a  narrow 
ribbon  through  these  perforations,  and  tie.  Attach  a  lead  pen- 
cil to  one  end  of  the  ribbon  used  for  binding  the  back.  All 
short  pieces  of  lead  pencils  may  be  collected  from  time  to  time 
and  saved  for  this  purpose. 

BOXES. 

Many  shapes  and  sizes  may  be  given  to  these  woven  boxes, 
and  firmness,  also,  if  a  heavy  quality  of  paper  is  used.  The 
shapes  are  formed  as  in  the  models  for  more  elementary  work, 
in  previous  pages.  The  covers  may  be  woven  on,  or  else  made 
separate  and  the  loose  ends  fastened  into  the  back  edge  of  the 
box.  When  the  box  is  large,  it  will  be  found  much  easier  to 
construct  it,  if  both  the  bottom  and  the  cover  are  made  sepa- 
rate. If  the  bottom  is  woven  separately,  it  is  fastened  into 
place  by  passing  the  loose  ends  of  the  bottom  edge  of  the  piece 
forming  the  sides  of  the  box  into  the  edges  of  the  mat  forming 
the  bottom. 

Handkerchief  and  glove  boxes  may  be  made  very  durable 
by  fitting  an  inner  box  of  heavy  cardboard,  or  oak  tag,  and 
gluing  the  woven  outside  box  to  this  one.  The  inner  box  may 
be  painted,  so  as  to  harmonize  with  the  colors  of  the  outside. 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  CARDBOARD. 

Second  Year. 
Third  School  Year. 

The  following  models  may  be  constructed  in  cardboard, 
oak  tag,  or  Essex  bristol.  The  latter  comes  in  a  variety 
of  artistic  and  pleasing  colors,  and  the  light  weight  is  quite 
as  inexpensive  and  much  more  attractive  than  oak  tag. 
There  is  no  saving  in  expense,  but  a  great  waste  of  the  teach- 
er's time,  if  she  attempts  to  cut  the  material  for  each  lesson, 
to  the  size  designated  in  the  following  directions. 

The  material  is  usually  ordered  for  a  year's  work,  and  of 
one  size  throughout.  In  all  these  models  a  saving  will  be 
effected  if,  placing  the  ruler  along  the  top  and  bottom  edge  of 
the  paper,  the  spaces  for  the  vertical  lines  are  dictated,  these 
lines  drawn,  and  the  cardboard  be  now  cut  to  the  exact 
width  required. 

Now  locate  on  the  edges  of  this  piece  the  spaces  for  the 
horizontal  lines,  and  after  drawing  these  lines,  cut  the  paper 
to  the  exact  length. 

The  teacher  having  placed  the  drawing  on  the  board  as 
she  dictated  to  the  class,  now  indicates  the  parts  to  be  cut 
away,  by  using  colored  crayon;  thus  making  the  details  less 
confusing.  The  pieces  cut  away  will  often  be  large  enough 
to  use  for  another  model. 

Le  Page's  glue  is  used  for  joining  all  models  constructed  of 
any  material  heavier  than  paper. 

As  the  pupils  come  to  see  how  folding  boxes  may  be  con- 
structed they  become  intensely  interested,  and  specimens  of 
all  shapes  and  sizes  are  brought  in,  with  the  request,  "May 
we  make  this  ?  " 

A  quantity  of  oak  tag  may  be  kept  where  the  pupils  have 
free  access  to  it,  and  scissors  and  glue  conveniently  near. 
For  "busy  work"  nothing  can  be  better  than  to  encourage 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  CARDBOARD. 


45 


the  developing  of  any  box  brought  in,  always  insisting  that 
the  drawing  be  made  by  measurement,  and  not  traced.  For 
the  pupils  who  cannot  work  unaided,  the  teacher  should 
mount,  on  a  large  sheet  of  heavy  cardboard,  working  draw- 
ings of  different  models,  and  also  fasten  to  this,  by  a  piece  of 
cord,  two  models  of  each  drawing;  glue  one  to  shape,  and 
leave  the  other  flat.  Hang  these  sufficiently  low,  so  the 
pupils  can  handle  the  models,  and  study  the  drawing. 

MODEL   I.  —  BUTTON   BOX. 

Material. — Essex  bristol,  six  inches  square.  Draw  the  diag- 
onal lines.  Place  a  dot  on  each  line,  one  inch  from  the  point 
of  intersection.  Draw  lines  connecting  these  dots.  The 

square  thus  formed  be- 
comes the  bottom  of 
the  box.  To  form  the 
sides  of  the  box,  find 
the  middle  of  the  up- 
per edge;  from  this 
point  measure  one  and 
one-half  inches  to  the 
right  and  left,  and  here 
place  a  dot,  marking 
these  points  A  and  B, 
as  in  Fig.  1.  Draw  lines 
from  these  points  to  the  corresponding  corners  of  the  inner 
square.  Repeat  this  drawing  on  the  other  three  sides.  To  form 
the  laps,  measure  on  the  upper  edge,  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
from  the  points  marked  A  and  B,  and  from  the  corresponding 
corners  of  the  inner  square,  measure  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
on  the  diagonal  lines.  Connect  these  points  with  opposite 
ones.  As  laps  are  needed  on  two  sides  only,  lines  similar  to 
these  are  drawn  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  box. 

Now  cut  to  line,  and  cut  off  the  upper  corners  of  the  lap. 
This  may  be  done  free  hand,  or  by  measuring  down  three- 


Model  I.   Button  Box. 


46 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


eighths  of  an  inch,  and  drawing  lines  to  A  and  B.  Cut  to 
these  lines.  Before  folding,  it  will  be  necessary  to  score  all 
lines  forming  edges.  This  is  done  by  using  the  sharp  point 
of  the  scissors,  a  knife  or  a  pin. 


Fig.  1. 
MODEL   II. —  TENT. 

Material. —  Oak  tag;  size,  12  in.  x  12  in. 

Place  the  tag  board  with  two  edges  parallel  to  the  edge  of 
the  desk. 

Placing  the  ruler  along  the  upper  edge  of  the  paper,  meas- 
ure to  the  right  one  and  one-quarter  inches,  and  here  place  a 
dot,  marking  this  point  A,  as  in  Fig.  2.  Repeat  this  at  the 
lower  edge,  and  draw  lines  connecting  these  two  dots.  From 
each  of  these  dots  measure  to  the  right  four  inches,  and  again 
draw  connecting  lines.  Locate  point  B.  From  the  ends  of 
this  line,  measure  two  and  one-half  inches  to  the  right,  draw 


a. 


Fig.  2. 


48 


RAPHIA  AND   REED  WEAVING. 


Model  H.    Tent. 

connecting  line,  and  cut  to  this  line.  Lay  aside  the  piece  cut 
away  and  place  the  drawing  on  the  desk  in  the  same  position 
as  before.  From  the  upper  left  corner,  measure  down  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch,  place  a  do',  and  draw  a  line  from  this  dot 
to  A.  From  the  lower  left  corner  measure  up  three-fourths  of 
an  inch  and  draw  a  line  from  this  point  down  to  the  end  of  the 
line  opposite  point  A.  Cut  to  these  lines.  From  the  upper 
right  corner,  measure  down  one  and  one-fourth  inches,  place 
a  dot,  and  draw  a  line  from  this  dot  to  point  B.  From  the 
lower  right  corner,  measure  up  one  and  one-fourth  inches, 
place  a  dot,  and  draw  a  line  to  end  of  the  line  opposite  point 
B.  Cut  to  these' lines.  Locate  points  C,  D,  E  and  F.  From 
points  A  and  B,  measure  down  five  and  three-fourths  inches 
and  draw  a  line  across,  Now  draw  a  line  from  the  ends  of  this 
line  to  points  C,  D,  E  and  F.  Cut  to  these  lines  and  score  all 


CONSTRUCTION  IN   CARDBOARD.  49 

remaining  lines.  Fold  for  the  body  of  the  tent.  For  the  floor 
of  the  tent  use  the  piece  cut  away,  and  place  it  with  its  long 
edges  parallel  with  the  front  edge  of  the  desk.  From  the  upper 
left  corner,  measure  one-half  inch  to  the  right,  and  place  a  dot. 
Eepeat  this  at  the  lower  left  corner  and  draw  a  line  across. 


K 


e 

<s 


I 


Fig.  3. 

From  the  ends  of  this  line,  measure  to  the  right  five  and  three- 
fourths  inches,  and  draw  a  line  across.  See  Fig.  3.  From 
the  ends  of  this  line,  locate  points  one-half  inch  to  the  right  and 
draw  a  line  across.  Cut  to  this  line.  Placing  the  drawing  on 
the  desk  in  the  same  position  as  before,  measure  down  four 
inches  from  the  upper  right  and  upper  left  corners,  place  dots 
and  draw  a  line  across.  Cut  to  this  line.  Score  all  remaining 
lines,  fold,  and  glue  into  position. 

MODEL   III.       COIK   BAG. 

Material.  —  Oak  tag ;  size,  7  in.  x  7  in. 

Place  the  paper  with  its  short  edges  parallel  with  the  front 
edge  of  the  desk.  From  the  upper  and  lower  left  corners 
measure  to  the  right  one  inch,  place  dots  and  draw  a  line 
across.  See  Fig.  4.  From  the  ends  of  this  line  measure  twc 
inches  to  the  right  and  draw  a  line  across.  Measure  one  and  one- 
half  inches  to  the  right  from  the  ends  of  this  line,  draw  a  line 


50 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING 


Model  III-    SoinBag. 


Fig.  4. 

across  and  cut  to  this  line.  From  the 
two  upper  corners  measure  down  one 
and  one-half  inches,  place  dots  and  draw 
a  line  across.  Cut  away  the  two  corner 
oblongs  thus  formed,  lay  a  two-inch 
semi-circular  tablet  with  its  straight 
edge  coinciding  with  line  A,  and  trace 
around  the  curved  edge,  using  a  sharp 
lead  pencil.  Cut  to  this  curved  line. 
From  the  two  upper  outside  corners 
measure  down  four  inches  and  draw  a 
line  across.  From  the  ends  of  this  line 
measure  down  one  inch,  draw  a  line 
across  and  cut  to  this  line.  Out  away 


CONSTRUCTION   IN  CARDBOARD.  51 

the  square  formed  in  lower  left  corner  and  the  oblong  formed 
in  lower  right.  Locate  points  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6.  From  point  1 
measure  down  one-fourth  inch,  draw  a  line  to  the  inner  upper 
corner  and  cut  to  this  line.  From  points  3  and  4  measure  up 
one-fourth  inch,  draw  lines  down  to  the  inner  corner  and  cut 
to  these  lines.  From  point  2  measure  down  three-eighths  of 
an  inch,  draw  a  line  up  to  the  inner  corner  and  cut  to  this  line. 
Measure  one-eighth  of  an  inch  to  the  right  of  point  5  and  to 
the  left  of  point  6.  Draw  lines  to  the  upper  corners,  cut  to 
these  lines,  score  all  remaining  lines,  fold  and  glue  into  shape. 


Model  IV.    Card  Case. 
MODEL   IV.       CAED    CASE. 

Material.  —  Essex  bristol;  size,  11  in.  x  8  in. 

Place  the  paper  with  its  long  edges  parallel  with  the  edge 
of  the  desk.  Measure  down  one  inch  from  the  upper  right 
and  upper  left  corners,  and  here  place  dots  on  the  edge  of  the 
paper.  Draw  a  line  connecting  these  dots.  See  Fig.  5.  From 
both  ends  of  this  line,  measure  down  five  inches,  place  dots,  and 
draw  connecting  line.  Measure  down  one  inch  from  both  ends 
of  this  line,  place  dots,  draw  connecting  line,  and  cut  to  this  line. 

From  the  upper  and  lower  left  corners,  measure  to  the 
right  two  inches,  place  dots,  and  draw  connecting  line.  Three 
inches  to  the  right  of  this  line,  draw  another  line,  and  again 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


a  second  line,  at  the  same  distance,  three  inches.    Locate  points 
two  inches  to  the  right  of  the  last  line,  draw  connecting  line, 


I 

00 


Fig.  5. 


CONSTRUCTION. 


c 


*-,    I 


Fig. 


and  cut  to  this  line. 
Now  cut  away,  from 
both  sides,  the  oblongs 
three  inches  by  one 
inch.  There  are  now 
four  •  projecting  pieces , 
size,  two  inches  by  one 
inch. 

Measure  in  one-half 
inch  on  each  outside 
corner  of  all  four,  and 
draw  lines  to  the  other 
corners,  as  shown  in 
the  drawing.  Cut  to 
these  lines,  score  all 
remaining  lines,  fold, 
and  glue  to  position. 

MODEL  V. —  LETTEB 

CASE. 

Material. — Essex 
bristol;  size,  12  in.  x  5 
in.  Place  the  paper 
with  its  long  edge  par- 
allel with  the  edge  of 
the  desk.  From  the 
upper  left  and  upper 
right  corner  measure 
down  three  inches  and 
draw  a  line  across. 
Erom  both  ends  of  this 
line  measure  down  one 
inch,  draw  a  line 
across,  and  cut  to  this 
line.  From  the  upper 


54 


RAPHTA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


and  lower  left  corners  measure  one  inch  to  the  right  and 
draw  a  line  across.  See  Fig.  6.  Four  inches  to  the  right  of 
this  line  draw  another  one.  Again,  one  inch  to  the  right  of 
this  one,  and  now  four  inches  to  the  right  of  this  last  line. 
Again  measure  one  inch  to  the  right,  draw  a  line,  and  cut  to 
this  line.  From  the  lower  edge  cut  up  as  indicated  by  the 
heavy  lines  in  the  drawing. 


Model  V.    Letter  Case. 

Find  the  middle  of  the  upper  edge  of  each  four-inch 
space,  and  place  a  dot.  Place  a  one-inch  semi-circular  tablet 
with  the  middle  of  its  straight  edge  at  this  dot.  Using  a 
sharp  pointed  pencil,  trace  around  this  tablet.  Cut  to  this 
circular  line.  Score  all  remaining  lines,  fold  and  glue  to 
position. 

MODEL    VI. — CARD    HOLDER. 

Material. — Essex  bristol;  size,  10  in.  x6  in.  Place  the 
•paper  with  its  short  edge  parallel  with  the  edge  of  the  desk. 
From  the  upper  and  lower  left  corners,  measure  to  the  right 
one  and  one-quarter  inches,  and  draw  a  line  across.  See  Fig.  7. 
Three  inches  to  the  right  of  this  line  draw  another  one,  and 
again  one  and  one-fourth  inches  to  the  right  of  this  last  line, 
draw  another  one,  and  cut  to  this  line.  From  the  upper  cor- 


CARDBOARD   CONSTRUCTION.  55 

ners  measure  down  three  inches  and  draw  a  light  line  across. 
Place  another  line  two  and  three-fourths  inches  below  this 
line,  and  again  three  inches  lower  down  draw  another  one. 
Cut  to  this  last  line.  Cut  the  oblong  spaces  away  from  the 
upper  corners.  Measure  down  one  and  one-half  inches  from 
the  upper  corners  of  the  projecting  piece,  and  here  place 


Fig.  7. 


RAPfllA  AND  HEED  WEAVING. 

dots.  Find  the  middle  of 
its  upper  edge,  and  from 
here  draw  lines  to  the 
dots  just  located,  and  cut 
to  these  lines.  From  the 
outside  corners  A  and  B, 
draw  lines  to  C  and  D. 
Cut  to  these  lines.  Score 
all  remaining  lines,  ex- 
cepting the  light  one 
crossing  the  back  of  the 
case.  Perforate  the  hole 
for  hanging,  fold  and 
glue. 

MODEL  VII. — PHOTO- 
GRAPH HOLDER. 

Material.  —  Bristol 
board;  size,  11  in.  x  10 in. 
Lay  the  paper  with  its 
Model  vi.  card  Holder.  long  edges   parallel  with 

the  edge  of  the  desk. 

From  the  upper  and  lower  left  corners,  measure  to  the  right 
two  and  one-half  inches,  and  draw  a  line.  See  Fig.  8.  Five 
inches  to  the  right  of  this  li AQ  draw  another ;  measure  again 
two  inches  and  one-half  to  the  right,  draw  a  line  and  cut  to  it. 
From  the  upper  corners,  measure  down  four  inches,  and 
draw  a  line  across. 

Two  inches  and  one-half  below  this  draw  another  line,  and 
again,  two  and  one-half  inches,  another  one.  Cut  to  this  line. 
Measure,  for  one-quarter  inch  lap,  to  the  left  of  line  C-E,  and 
to  the  right  of  line  D-F.  Cut  to  these  lines,  and  shape  the 
lap  as  indicated  on  drawing. 

From  the  upper  corners,  measure  down  one  and  one-half 
inches,  and  place  dots  on  the  edges  of  the  paper.  From  these 


CARD60ARD   CONSTRUCTION. 


dots,  draw  lines  to  points  A  and  B,  and  cut  to  these  lines. 
Find  the  middle  of  the  upper  edge  (the  five-inch  space),  and 
here  form  the  semi-circular  opening.  Repeat  this  at  the  lower 
edge.  Score  all  remaining  lines,  fold,  and  glue  to  position. 


Model  VII.    Photograph  Holder. 
MODEL   YIII.       WALL   LETTER   CASE. 

Material. — Essex  bristol;  size,  12  in.  x  7  in. 

Place  the  paper  with  its  long  edge  parallel  with  the  edge 
of  the  desk.  Measure  in  on  top  and  bottom  edge,  four  inches, 
and  draw  a  line  across.  See  Fig.  9.  Form  another  space 
of  one  and  one-half  inches,  another  of  four  inches,  and  still 
another  of  one  and  one-half  inches  in  width.  One-quarter 
inch  to  the  right  of  this  last  line,  draw  another  one,  and  cut 
to  this  line.  From  the  upper  corners,  measure  down  one  and 
one-half  inches  on  the  edge  of  the  paper,  and  draw  a  line 
across.  Three  inches  below  this  line  draw  another  one,  and 
again,  one  and  one-half  inches,  another  one.  Cut  to  this  line. 

Cut  away  the  oblongs  in  the  upper  corner,  leaving  the  pro- 
jecting piece  as  indicated.  Find  the  middle  of  this  upper 


58  RAt»HIA  AND  REED   WEAVING. 

edge,  and  draw  lines  from  this  point  to  a  point  one-half  inch 
below  each  corner.     Cut  to  these  lines. 

From  points  A  and  B,  measure  down  one-quarter  inch, 
draw  line  and  cut  for  laps.  Shape  as  indicated.  Score  all 
remaining  lines,  except  the  line  across  the  back.  Fold  to  posi- 
tion and  glue.  Perforate  the  hole  for  hanging. 


MODEL   IX.  —  EGG   BOX. 

Material. — Essex  bristol;  two  pieces,  size,  11  in.  x  9  in. 

Lay  the  paper  with  its  long  edge  parallel  with  the  edge  of 
the  desk.  From  the  upper  corners  measure  down  two  inches 
and  draw  a  line  across.  Place  another  line  four  inches  below 


i 

1 


X 


Fig  9. 


60  RAfHlA   AND    REED   WEAVING. 

this  and  still  another  one  two  inches  below.  Cut  to  this  line. 
Two  inches  to  the  right  of  the  left  edge  draw  a  line,  another 
one  four  inches,  and  still  another  one  two  inches.  Cut  to 
this  line.  Draw  the  diagonals  of  the  corner  squares.  Cut 
out  the  triangles  as  indicated.  The  remaining  ones  form  the 
laps.  See  Fig.  10. 


Model  VIII.    Wall  Letter  Case. 


Eepeat  this  drawing  on  the  second  piece.  Form  the  par- 
titions from  the  piece  cut  away,  making  a  lap  one-half  inch 
wide,  and  fitting  as  indicated  by  the  heavy  lines  in  Figs.  12 
and  13,  cutting  in  here  to  the  depth  of  one  inch.  Locate 
the  semi-circular  openings  in  the  coyer  as  indicated  at  Fig. 
11.  Score  all  remaining  lines,  fold,  glue  into  position,  and 
then  add  the  partitions. 


62 


RAl'IIIA    AND    REED    WEAViXO. 


Model  IX.    Egg  Box. 


Fig.  12. 


Fig.  13. 


EEED  WEAVING. 

Second  Year. 
Third  School  Year. 

This  line  of  manual  work  follows  the  weaving  with  papei 
strips,  and  is  here  introduced  into  the  second  grade  (third 
school  year).  The  course  consists  of  the  weaving  of  mats, 
trays,  baskets  of  various  shapes  and  sizes,  and  a  complete  set 
of  doll's  furniture,  the  making  of  which  is  interesting  to  boys 
and  girls  alike. 

The  educational  value  of  this  form  of  manual  training  can 
not  be  overestimated.  First,  it  is  pleasing  to  the  child,  and 
thus  the  desire  to  create  is  stimulated  and  the  inventive  facul- 
ties cultivated.  Symmetry,  form  and  proportion  are  taught  ? 
and  both  hand  and  eye  trained  to  accuracy,  while  the  observ- 
ing faculties  are  aroused  to  notice  designs  and  shapes  in  various 
manufactured  articles. 

Tools. — Scissors,  knife,  1  pair  flat  pliers,  1  small  hammer, 

1  package  one-inch  No.  18  brads,  1  four-inch  scratch  awl,  and 
a  small  iron  vise,  which,  while  not  absolutely  necessary,  will 
prove  of  great  convenience  in  holding  the  work  for  fastening. 

Materials. — Round  reed,  Nos.  2,  3  and  4;  split  reed,  Nos. 
2,  3,  4,  6;  flat  and  oval  pith,  sizes,  5,  5j4  and  6^,  fine  cane 
(for  binding) ,  light  linen  cord  and  raphia. 

LESSON    I.       FOUNDATION    WOEK    WITH    COED. 

As  it  is  difficult  for  children  to  manage  the  weaving, 
when  starting  with  round  reed,  the  first  lesson  is  given  with 
cord  as  a  weaving  strand.  For  the  foundation  rays,  use  JSTo. 

2  reed.     Give  each  pupil  eight  pieces  seven  inches  long,  one 
piece  four  inches  long,  and  two  yards  of  cord.     Divide  the 
strands  into/owrs,  and  cross  at  right  angles,  placing  the  ones 


64 


RAPHIA  AND   REED   WEAVING. 


passing  from  left  to  right  on  top  the  other  four,  being  careful 
to  cross  at  centers,  and  hold  the  work  firmly  between  the  thumb 
and  fore  finger  of  the  left  hand. 


Designp  for  a  Border.    No.  1. 


REED   WEAVING.  65 

Hold  the  cord  as  a  weaver  in  the  right  hand,  leaving  a  free 
and  the  length  of  the  extended  arms.  Pass  this  weaver  over 
the  four  rays  on  the  left  (No.  1),  then  under  the  upper  four 
(No.  2),  over  No.  3,  under  No.  4,  and  now  over  the  cord. 
At  this  stage,  insert  the  four-inch  strand  of  reed,  laying  it 
alongside  the  cord  so  as  to  give  firmness  to  this  ray,  which  we 
treat  as  four.  Now  proceed  under  and  over,  around  and  around 
the  mat,  care  being  taken  to  hold  the  weaver  firmly  between 
the  thumb  and  fore  finger  of  right  hand,  and  close  up  to  the 
ray  around  which  the  cord  is  passing.  Use  the  fingers  of  the 
left  hand  to  turn  the  work  and  at  the  same  time  to  press  down 
the  weaver  between  the  rays. 

Have  the  child  first  master  this  simple  form  of  weaving 
with  undivided  rays  before  the  division  into  twos  is  made. 

One  great  advantage  in  starting  with  cord  is  that  the  work 
may  be  unwound  and  the  material  used  over  and  over  again 
until  the  pupil  has  learned  to  start  his  own  work  and  weave 
through  this  step. 


Circular  Mat.   Fig.  1. 


66  RAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 

MODEL   II.       SMALL   CIRCULAR   MAT. 

Materials. — Eight  strands  round  reed  (No.  2),  seven  inches 
long,  and  one  strand  four  inches  long,  for  foundations;  one 
long  strand  (No.  2  reed)  for  weaving. 

Before  making  this  model,  it  will  be  necessary  to  soak  the 
reed  in  water  (warm  preferred),  for  about  two  hours.  This 
renders  it  as  pliable  as  cord. 

Start  as  in  Fig.  1,  inserting  the  short  strand  beside  the 
projecting  end  of  the  weaving  strand.  Weave  under  four  and 
over  four  twice  around,  then  proceed  to  divide  the  rays  into 
twos,  beginning  the  division  just  after  passing  the  inserted 
strand,  and  weave  over  two  and  under  two.  Be  careful  to  keep 
equal  space  between  the  foundation  rays  (so  as  to  secure  sym- 
metrical work),  and  also  to  keep  the  weaving  thread  down 
close  to  the  center  with  the  fingers  of  the  left  hand,  and,  by 
constantly  turning  the  work,  follow  closely  the  weaving  thread, 
which  is  to  be  held  in  the  right  hand  close  to  the  work.  It  is 
very  necessary  to  emphasize  these  points.  After  weaving  a 
mat  three  inches  in  diameter,  cut  the  ends  of  the  foundation 
rays  to  even  lengths,  and  insert  the  scratch  awl  alongside  each 
foundation  ray,  and  into  the  opening  thus  secured,  pass  the 


Division  of  rays  into  ones.    Fig.  2. 


REED   WEAVING. 


67 


ends,  by  twos,  of  the  foundation  rays;  this  secures  the  work, 
and  makes  a  finish  by  forming  loops.  Flatten  the  mat  before 
allowing  to  dry. 

MODEL   III. —  TEAT. 

Materials. —  Kound  reed  No.  2;  eight  pieces  twelve  inches 
and  one  piece  seven  inches  long  for  foundation  rays ;  two  long 
strands  for  weavers. 

When  weaving  with  one  strand  it  is  necessary  to  have  an 
uneven  number  of  rays  for  the  foundation.  After  starting 
the  center,  as  in  Lesson  L,  the  seven-inch  piece  is  inserted 
alongside  the  extended  end  of  the  weaving  strand,  and  the 
weaving  proceeds  under  four,  over  four,  three  times  around. 
Then  make  the  division  by  twos.  (See  Fig.  2).  Just 
after  passing  the  inserted  strand  and  keeping  the  work  flat, 
weave  four  times  around.  Now,  while  holding  the  work  in 
both  hands,  press  the  thumbs  outward  and  into  the  center  of 
the  mat,  keeping  the  end  of  the  weaving  strand  toward  the 
right,  and  the  ends  of  the  rays  away  from  the  body  ;  gradu- 
ally bend  them  inward  toward  center  of  the  bottom, — thus 
obtaining  the  desired  shape.  It  is  well  to  keep  the  first 
attempts  at  "shaping"  quite  shallow. 

From  this  point  divide  the  rays  into  ones  (see  Fig.  2),  and 
here  cut  away  the  end  of  weaving  strand  left  extended  at 
point  of  insertion  of  the  seven-inch  piece;  this  is  necessary 
if  an  uneven  number  of  rays  is  required. 


Border 


08  RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 

When  the  end  of  the  first  weaver  is  reached  the  second 
one  may  be  spliced  on  by  laying  the  end  of  the  new  weaving 
strand  alongside  the  end  of  the  first. 

Do  not  place  the  ends  of  weavers  down  by  the  side  of  the 
foundation  rays,  until  the  work  is  complete,  when  the  final 
end  may  be  passed  down,  in  order  to  close  the  work.  Finish 
with  border  II. 

BOEDER   II. 

After  trimming  the  ends  of  the  rays  to  even  lengths  — 
(about  three  inches),  pass  the  end  of  each  standing  strand 
behind  the  first  one  to  the  left,  in  front  of  the  second  one, 
and  down  by  the  side  of  this  one.  It  may  be  slipped  down 
beside  the  second  one  before  passing  in  front  of  it,  if  pre- 
ferred. 


MODEL   IV. SMALL   BASKET. 

Materials.  —  Round  reed,  Nos.  2  and  3 ;  three  long  strands 
No.  2  reed  for  weavers;  eight  pieces  fourteen,  and  one  piece 
eight  inches  long  (No.  3  reed),  for  foundation. 

After  starting  as  in  Lesson  I., — and  making  division  of 
twos,  as  in  Model  II.,  weave  over  two  and  under  two  until  the 
bottom  is  two  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter. 

Now  turn  up  the  sides  of  the  basket  sharply  and  continue 
to  weave  to  end  of  strand.  Finish  with  border  I.  As  it  is 
desirable  to  have  the  weaving  strands  soft  and  pliable,  a  pail 
of  warm  water  should  be  standing  in  the  class-room  and  the, 
waving  strands  placed  in  this  until  needed, 


HEED  WEAVING. 


In  all  these  simple  lessons  the  shaping  is  done  entirely  by 
the  hand,  thus  training  the  hand  to  deftness  and  exactness, 
and  the  eye  to  symmetry  and  proportion. 


5- 

BORDER    III. 

Pass  ray  No.  1  behind  Nos.  3  and  4  and  down  by  the  side 
of  No.  5.  Pass  No.  2  behind  Nos.  3  and  4  and  down  by  the 
side  of  No.  6  —  and  continue  until  the  last  ray  is  passed  down. 


I       5-      ^      .3      A 

BORDER   IV. 

Take  any  standing  ray  as  No.  1,  pass  it  behind  No.  2,  in- 
front  of  No.  3  and  then  down  into  the  basket.  Now  pass 
No.  2  behind  No.  3,  in  front  of  No.  4,  and  down  into  the 
basket,  leaving  these  two  loops  open  in  order  to  receive  the 
last  two  ends.  Press  the  other  loops  down  flat,  and  when 
completed  trim  the  ends  to  even  lengths,  leaving  about  one 
inch  in  length  inside  the  basket.  Length  of  spoke  for 
border,  four  inches. 


70 


RAPHIA  AND   REED  WEAVING. 


BORDER    V. 

Take  any  ray  as  No.  1,  pass  it  behind  No.  2  and  No.  3,  in 
front  of  Nos.  4  and  5,  and  then  down  inside  the  basket. 
Then  pass  No.  2  behind  Nos.  3  and  4,  in  front  of  Nos.  5  and 
6,  and  down  inside  the  basket.  Continue  to  the  end,  weaving 
the  last  two  into  the  loops  formed  by  Nos.  1  and  2.  Length 
of  spoke  for  border,  six  inches. 

BORDER  VI. 

Length  of  rays  needed  for  this  border,  nine  inches. 
Place  ray  No.  1  behind  No.  2,  and  bring  the  end  down  under 
the  thumb  of  the  left  hand.  Then  lay  No.  2  behind  No.  3. 


Border  VI.    Detail  No.  1. 


REED   WEAVING. 


71 


Now  go  back  to  No.  1  and  pass  it  before  No.  3,  and  behind 
No.  4,  bringing  the  end  down  in  front  of  the  basket,  and  hold 
it  here,  while  laying  No.  3  (which  is  the  first  one  standing) 


6       *• 


Border  VI.    Detail  No.  2. 


Border  VI.    Detail  No.  3. 


72 


KAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 


down  alongside  of  No.  1.  Now  take  No.  2  and  pass  it  in 
front  of  No.  4  and  behind  No.  5,  and  lay  No.  4  (still  stand- 
ing) behind  No.  5,  and  down  beside  No.  2.  It  will  now  be 
observed  that  the  ends  of  the  reeds  are  forming  sets  of  twos. 
Now  begin  with  the  first  pair,  and  take  the  longer  of  the  two 
reeds,  and  pass  it  in  front  of  No.  5  and  behind  No.  6,  and 
down  in  front ;  then  turn  No.  5  down  behind  No.  6  and 
alongside  the  end  just  turned  down.  Continue  in  this  man- 
ner until  but  one  end  is  standing,  when  we  are  ready  to  close 
the  border.  Now  take  the  longer  one  of  the  last  two  and 
place  it  in  front  of  No.  1  (which  was  the  first  spoke  used), 
and  bring  the  end  out  in  front  under  No.  2.  Take  the  longer 
end  of  the  set  of  twos  and  place  it  in  front  of  No.  2,  and 
bring  this  end  out  in  front  under  No.  3.  The  ends  may 
now  be  cut  off  in  front,  or  woven  back  and  cut  off  on  the 
inside  of  the  basket. 


/    2    3    t  6-  6 

Border  VI.    Detail  No.  4. 
USE    OF   TWO    WEAVEES. 

The  entire  depth  of  the  sides  of  a  basket  may  be  woven  with 
two  weavers,  or  this  style  may  be  used  at  the  bottom  of  the 
basket,  where  the  spokes  are  turned  up.  It  also  adds  to  the 
appearance  of  the  basket  if  two  or  three  rows,  using  two 
weavers,  are  inserted  just  after  braided  rush  or  straw  has  been 
used. 

To  work  with  two  weavers,  one  end  of  each  is  inserted 
behind  two  successive  rays,  or  spokes,  as  at  A,  then  each,  in 


REED   WEAVING 


73 


Use  of  Two  Weavers. 


turn,  is  brought  in  front  of  one  and  behind  the  next  one, 
indicated  in  the  drawing. 


Use  of  Three  Weavers. 


USE    OF   THEEE    WEAVERS. 

Insert  three  single  weavers,  behind  three  successive  spokes, 
as  at  A  and  B,  and  place  each,  in  turn,  in  front  of  the  next 
two  rays,  and  behind  the  third.  This  style  of  weaving  is  used 
especially  to  strengthen  the  work  at  the  point  of  turning  up 
for  the  sides,  where  it  not  only  hides  the  ends  of  any  additional 
rays  added  at  this  point,  but  it  strengthens  the  basket. 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


Double  Weaving. 
DOUBLE    WEAVING. 

An  effective  style  of  weaving  may  be  worked  by  using  an 
even  number  of  rays,  and  passing,  with  a  single  weaving  strand, 
under  one,  over  one,  two  or  three  times  around,  and  then  alter- 
nate for  another  two  or  three  rows.  This  alternation  must 
always  be  made  on  the  under  side,  and  is  effected  by  passing 
under  two  rays,  and  then  on,  over  one  and  under  one. 

This  is  most  effective  when  the  spokes  are  double  or  treble, 
according  to  the  number  of  rows  used  before  the  change  is 
made.  If,  in  order  to  make  the  bottom  of  the  basket  of  suffi- 
cient strength  and  size,  a  division  of  ones  has  been  made,  the 
extra  ray  (for  additional  spokes)  may  be  added  at  the  point 


Triple  Weaving. 


Flower  Basket. 


AtfD  REED 

of  turning  up  the  rays  for  the  sides,  and  here  working  in  three 
rows  of  triple  weaving  (three  weavers) ,  and  then  proceed  with 
the  single  weaver  two  or  three  times  around. 

FLOWEK  BASKET. 

For  the  foundation  use  No.  4  reed,  eight  strands  twenty- 
seven  and  one  strand  fourteen  inches  in  length.  Use  No.  2 
reed  for  the  weavers.  Begin  the  division  of  twos  immediately 
after  fastening  the  center.  As  the  lower  part  of  this  basket  is 
not  more  than  one  inch  in  diameter  at  the  base,  it  is  necessary 
to  begin  to  form  this  part  by  turning  back  the  rays  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  weaving.  When  the  elongated  part  is  the  desired 
length,  the  division  of  ones  is  made,  and  after  weaving  but  once 
around,  an  extra  spoke  is  inserted  alongside  each  single  one. 
This  is  done  so  as  to  give  solidity  to  the  basket,  and  also  to 
make  a  heavier  border  than  is  possible  with  single  spokes. 
The  sides  are  now  turned  outward  and  then  upward.  When 
the  basket  is  the  desired  size,  the  ends  of  the  spokes  should  be 
dampened  and  then  turned  at  right  angles  with  the  basket, 
and  here  finish  with  border  No.  3.  This  produces  aflat  finish 
to  the  border.  The  handle  is  formed  by  inserting  a  piece  of 
No.  4  reed  into  the  sides  of  the  basket,  and  upon  this,  twisting 
back  and  forth,  a  length  of  No.  2  reed,  until  the  foundation 
is  hidden  and  a  rope-like  appearance  is  given  to  the  handle. 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  CARDBOARD. 


THIED  YEAR. 

Fourth  School  Year. 
MODEL  I.  —  BILL  HOLDER. 

Material.  — Essex  bristol;  size,  12  in.  x  9  in. 

Place  the  paper  with  its  long  edges  parallel  with  the  edge 

of  the  desk.     Lay  off  the  vertical  lines,  forming  the  spaces, 

one-quarter  inch,  two  inches,  three  and  one-half  inches,  two 

inches  and  three  and  one-half  inches.     Cut  to  the  last  line. 

Prom  the  upper  cor- 
ners, measure  down 
two  and  one -half 
inches,  draw  a  line, 
and  from  here  meas- 
ure down  three  and 
one-half  inches, 
again  draw  a  line, 
and  from  here  meas- 
ure two  inches,  and, 
again,  one -quarter 
inch,  draw  lines  and 
cut  to  the  last  one. 
See  Fig.  1. 

From  points  A 
and  B  measure  one- 
half  inch,  place  dots 
and  draw  lines  to 
points  C  and  D,  as 
shown  in  the  draw- 
tog.  Ottt  away  all 


Model  I. 


78 


RAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 


waste  across  the  top.  Now  locate  points  E  and  F,  and  draw 
in  the  lines  forming  the  laps.  Score  all  lines,  excepting  the 
line  C-D.  Fold  into  shape  and  glue. 


•»* 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  CARDBOARD. 


MODEL   II.  —  COMB    CASE. 

Material.  —  Essex  bristol  ;  size  8  in.  x  8  in. 

From  the  upper  left  corner  proceed  to  lay  off  the  vertical 
spaces,  two,  three  and  one-half,  and  two  inches  wide.  See 
Fig.  2.  From  the  two  upper  corners  measure  down  and  lay 
off  the  horizontal  spaces  two,  two,  one,  '  and  two  and  one- 
fourth  inches  wide.  Cut  to  the  last  line.  Cut  the  squares 
away  from  the  upper  corners.  Measuring  in  one  inch  and 
down  one-half  inch,  draw  lines  and  cut  off  the  corners  of  the 
projecting  piece,  as  shown  in  the  drawings.  From  points  A 
and  B  measure  out  one  inch,  place  dots,  and  draw  lines  from 
these  dots  to  the  upper  corners.  Cut  to  these  lines.  From 


Fig. 


80 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


points  A  and  B  lay  out  the  one- quarter-inch  laps.  Cut  to 
these  lines  and  shape  as  indicated.  Score  all  lines  excepting 
the  one  across  the  back.  Fold  into  shape  and  glue. 


Model  II.    Comb  Case. 
MODEL  III. — CORNER   BRACKET. 

Material.  — Essex  bris- 
tol;  size,  11  in.  x  7  in. 

Place  the  paper  with 
its  short  edge  parallel 
with  the  edge  of  the  desk. 
Find  the  middle  of  the 
upper  and  lower  edges 
and  draw  a  line  across. 
Measure  three  inches 
down  from  the  upper  cor- 
ner and  draw  a  line  across. 
From  the  point  of  inter- 
section of  the  two  lines 
comer  Bracket,  measure  three  inches  to 


a 


82 


EAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 


the  right  and  left,  place  dots,  and  draw  lines  from  these  dots 
to  point  A.  See  Fig.  3.  Cut  to  these  lines  and  cut  in  on 
line  A-B.  From  B  measure  down  six  inches,  place  a  dot,  and 
draw  lines  from  this  dot  to  the  ends  of  line  C-D.  Score  the 
remaining  lines  and  score  through  the  center  line.  Measure 
one  inch  down  from  D  and  up  from  E.  Locate  dots  and  cut 
the  curve  from  these  points. 

MODEL   IV. — CANDY   BOX. 

Material. — Essex  bristol ;  size,  12  in.  x  8  in. 

Place  the  paper  with  its  short  edge  parallel  with  the  edge 
of  the  desk.  From  the  upper  corners  measure  down  and  lay 
off  the  horizontal  spaces,  viz. :  three,  one  and  one-half,  three, 
one  and  one-fourth,  and  one  and  one-fourth  inches  each. 
Cut  to  the  last  line.  See  Fig.  4.  Lay  off  the  vertical  spaces, 
one  and  one-half,  four,  and  one  and  one-half  inches  each. 
Locate  the  middle  of  the  upper  edge,  and  cut  the  semi-circular 
opening.  Bisect  the  lines  A-B  and  C-D  and  from  the  point  of 
bisection  measure  out  one  inch,  and  from  these  points  draw 
lines  to  A,  B,  0  and  D.  Cut  to  these  lines.  Cut  away  the 
oblongs  from  the  lower  corners.  Bound  the  corners  of  the  pro- 


Model  IV.    Candy  Box. 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  CARDBOARD. 


jecting  piece.     Score  all  remaining  lines  and  fold  to  place. 
This  box  may  be  glued  to  shape  if  preferred. 


Fig.  4 


84 


EAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


MODEL  V. — FOLDING   BOX. 

Material. — Essex  bristol ;  size,  13  in.  x  8  in. 

From  the  upper  corners  lay  out  the  horizontal  spaces,  viz. : 
two  and  one-half  inches,  one  inch,  two  and  one-half  inches 
and  one  inch  each.  See  Fig.  5.  From  the  upper  left  corner 
measure  off  the  vertical  spaces,  viz. :  two  and  one-half,  three 
and  one-half,  two  and  one-half,  three  and  one-half  and  one- 
half  inch  each.  Cut  away  all  waste,  leaving  the  projecting 


Fl«  5 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  CARDBOARD. 


piece  at  the  bottom. 
This  forms  the  cover 
and  the  tongue  (or 
the  piece  to  slip  in- 
side the  edge  of  the 
box) .  The  piece  pro- 
jecting at  the  right 
forms  the  lap. 

Cut  in  on  all  heavy 
lines,  as  indicated  by 
the  drawing,  and  fold 
and  crease  on  all 
dotted  lines.  Now 
bring  the  box  into 
shape  as  shown  in  the 
sketch.  Place  glue 
on  the  one-half  inch  lap  and  fasten. 

MODEL   VI. — LUNCH    BOX. 

Material. — Essex  bristol ;  size,  9  in.  x  8  in. 

From  the  upper  corners  measure  down  and  draw  lines  for 
the  horizontal  spaces,  viz. :  two,  three,  and  two  inches  each. 
Cut  to  the  line  drawn  last.  See  Fig.  6.  From  the  upper 
left  corner  lay  off  the  vertical  spaces,  viz. :  one  and  one-half, 
two,  one  and  one-half,  one-half  and  one  inch  each.  Cut  to 
the  line  drawn  last.  From  points  A  and  B  measure  up  one 
and  one-half  inches,  place 
dots,  draw  line  across  and 
cut  to  this  line.  Cut  in 
on  the  lines  A-X  and  B-X. 
Repeat  this  on  opposite 
side  at  points  0  and  D. 
Cut  in  to  form  the  laps 
on  the  cover,  making  this 
lap  one-half  inch  wide,  Model  vi.  Lunch  BOX. 


86 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


with  a  projecting  tongue  of  one  inch  (pointed  at  the  end). 
Fold  into  shape,  cut  the  openings  in  the  front  edge  of  the 
box  and  pass  the  tongue  through  this.  Glue  into  shape. 


Fig.  6. 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  CARDBOARD. 


87 


MODEL   VII. — HAT    BOX. 

Material. — Manilla  paper;  size,  6  in.  x  6  in. 

Laying  the  rulers  along  the  edge  of  the  paper,  place  dots  at 
every  one  and  one-half  inch  space.  See  Fig.  7.  From  these  dots 
draw  slanting  connecting  lines  to  the  right  and  left.  Draw  these 
in  either  as  dotted  or  light  lines.  Now  make  heavy  all  lines 
reaching  from  the  outside  edge  to  the  first  point  of  intersec- 
tion, and  cut  to  these  lines,  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  Cut  in 
on  the  diagonal  lines  at  points  A,  B,  0  and  D.  The  triangles 
thus  formed  are  used  for  laps.  The  square  touched  on  the 


EAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 


Model  VII.    Hat  Box. 


corners  by  these  triangles 
forms  the  bottom  of  the 
box.  Crease  on  the  lines 
around  this  square  and 
turn  the  paper  up  to  form 
the  sides  of  the  box.  Now 
crease  and  fold  over  for 
the  covers.  An  opening 
is  made  in  two  adjacent 
corners  and  through  these 
the  pointed  end  of  the 
tongue  is  passed.  This  model  requires  no  gluing. 

MODEL   VIII. TABOURETTE    I. 

Material. — Strawboard;  size,  10  in.  x  8  in. 

From  the  upper  and  lower  left  corners  measure  off  the 
vertical  spaces  (two  inches  each),  and  draw  lines  across;  now 
add  the  one-half-inch  space  for  the  lap  and  cut  to  this  line. 

From  the  upper  corners  measure  down  one-half  inch 
and  draw  a  line  across ;  this  space  forms  the  top  lap.  From 
this  line  measure  down  three  inches,  draw  a  line  across  and 
cut  to  this  line.  From  the  top  edge  measure  down  one  and 
one-half  inches  and  draw  a  light  line  across.  This  line  is 
crossed  by  the  vertical  lines.  Measure  one  inch  to  the  right 


Fig.  8 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  CARDBOARD. 


89 


and  left  of  the  point  of  intersection  and  here  place  a  dot. 
With  a  compass  describe  a  circle  one-half  inch  in  diameter, 
using  the  dot  as  a  center.  From  the  lower  left  corner  meas- 
ure in  one-half  inch  and 
place  a  dot.  Measure  one- 
half  inch  to  the  right  and 
left  of  the  lower  ends  of 
the  vertical  lines  and  here 
place  dots.  From  these 
dots  draw  lines  to  the 
center  of  the  correspond- 
ing circles  and  cut  to 
these  lines,  and  then  cut 
out  the  remainder  of  the 
circle.  Score  all  vertical 
lines,  and  score  and  turn 

Model  VIII.    Tabourette  I.  .    ,  ,  ,      ,, 

to  a  right  angle  the  one- 
half-inch  space,  first  cutting  in  on  the  heavy  lines.  Glue  to 
shape. 

From  the  waste  piece  cut  a  square  four  inches  by  four 
inches.     Draw  a  line  one  inch  in  from  all  edges.     This  line 


Model  IX.    Kitchen  Table. 


90 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


indicates  the  position  of  the  framework.     Glue  the  four-inch 
square  to  the  top  of  the  framework. 

MODEL   IX.  —  KITCHEK   TABLE. 

Material.  —  Straw  board;  size,  16  in.  x  8  in. 

From  the  upper  and  lower  left  corners  measure  oif  the 
vertical  spaces,  three,  four,  three 
and  four  inches,  and  again  one- 
half  inch.  See  Fig.  9.  Draw 
lines  across,  and  cut  to  the  last 
line.  From  the  upper  corners 
measure  down  one-half  inch  and 
draw  a  line  across.  Cut  in  on  the 
heavy  lines  above  this  horizontal 
one.  From  this  line  measure 
down  three  and  one-half  inches 
and  draw  a  line  across.  Cut  to 
this  line. 

From  the  horizontal  line  meas- 
ure down  one-half  inch  and  draw 
a  line  across.  Locate  points  A, 
B,  0  and  D.  Measure  one-half 
inch  to  the  right  and  left  of  these 
points,  and  repeat  this  at  the 
lower  ends  of  the  vertical  lines. 
Draw  lines  connecting  these  dots, 
and  cut  to  these  lines. 

Score  all  vertical  lines,  and  the 
remaining  horizontal  line.  Glue 
to  shape.  From  the  waste  piece 
cut  the  top  of  the  table,  size  five 
inches  by  four  inches.  Draw  a 
line  one-half  inch  in  from  all 
edges,  and  glue  this  piece  to  the 
foundation. 


rig.  9. 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  CARDBOARD. 


91 


MODEL  X. — TABOURETTE  II. 

Material. — Essex  "bristol;  size,  8  in.  x  8  in. 
From  the  upper  corners  measure  down  one-half  inch  and 
draw  a  line  across.     From  this  line  measure  down  three  inches, 
draw  a  line  across  and  cut  to  this  line.     See  Fig.  10. 

From  the  upper  and  lower  left  corners  measure  to  the 
right  for  the  vertical  spaces  of  one  and  one-half  inch  each, 
and  the  one  space  one-quarter  inch  wide.  Draw  lines  and  cut 

to  the  last  line.  From 
the  horizontal  line 
measure  down  one  inch 
and  draw  a  line  across. 
Locate  points  A,  B,  C 
and  D. 

Measure  three- 
fourths  inch  to  the 
right  and  left  of  these 
points  and  here  place 
a  dot. 

From  the  lower  left 
corner  measure  to  the 


Fig.  10 


92  RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 

right  one-quarter  inch  and  also  measure  one-quarter  inch  to 
the  right  and  left  of  the  lower  end  of  each  vertical  line  and 
place  dots. 

Draw  lines  from  these  dots  to  the  dots  at  points  1,  23  3 
and  4. 

Find  the  middle  of  these  lines  and  draw  a  compound 
curve.  Cut  to  these  curved  lines.  Score  all  vertical  lines, 
and  also  the  line  forming  the  edge  of  the  top  lap.  Glue  to 
shape.  From  the  waste  piece  cut  a  circular  top,  four  inches 
in  diameter,  and  glue  it  to  the  framework. 


Model  X.    Tabourette  II. 
MODEL  XI. — TABOURETTE   III. 

Material. — Essex  "bristol;  size,  10  in.  x  8  in. 

From  the  upper  corners  measure  down  one-half  inch  and 
draw  a  line  across.  From  this  line  measure  down  two  and 
one-half  inches,  draw  a  line  across  and  cut  to  this  line.  From 
the  upper  and  lower  left  corners  locate  dots  for  the  vertical 
lines  one  and  one-half  inch  apart,  and  one  space  one-quarter 
inch,  to  form  the  lap.  Draw  lines  connecting  these  dots,  and 
cut  to  the  last  line.  From  the  horizontal  line  measure  down 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  and  draw  a  light  line  across.  Locate 


CONSTRUCTION   IN   CARDBOARD. 


93 


points  A,  B,  0,  D,  E  and  F.  Measure  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  to  the  right  and  left  of  these  points  and  place  a  dot. 
From  the  lower  left  corner  measure  to  the  right  three-eighths 
of  an  inch,  and  the  same  from  the  lower  ends  of  the  vertical 
lines. 

Draw  freehand  curves  in  one 
of  the  vertical  spaces  as  indi- 
cated in  Fig.  11.  Cut  to  this 
curve.  Score  all  vertical  lines. 
Place  the  section  containing 
the  curves  over  each  of  the 
other  sections,  and  trace  around 
the  curved  lines,  thus  forming 
the  six  legs.  Glue  to  shape. 

For  the  top  use  the  waste 
piece,  and  on  this  describe  a 
hexagon  on  the  given  base,  one 
and  one-half  inches.  Take  the 
line  A-B,  one  and  one-half 
inches  in  length.  With  a 
radius  equal  to  the  length  of 
A-B,  describe  arcs,  using  the 
ends  of  the  line  as  centers. 


<-^,> 


Fig- 12. 


Fig.  11. 


94 


RAPHIA  AND   REED   WEAVING. 


The  arcs  cut  each  other  at  point  C.  With  C  as  center,  and 
the  same  radius,  describe  a  circle.  Beginning  at  B,  set  off 
this  space,  around  the  circumference  of  the  circle.  Draw 
lines  connecting  these  points,  as  in  Fig.  12. 

MODEL   XII. — CHAIE. 

Material.  —  Essex  bristol;  size,  11  in.  x  8  in. 
From  the  upper  corners  measure  down  one-half  inch  and 
draw  a  line  across.     From  this  line  measure   down  three- 
eighths  inch  and  draw  a  line 
across ;  again,  from  the  same 
line,  measure  down  two  and 
one-half  inches,  draw  a  line, 
and  cut  to  this  line. 

From  the  upper  and 
lower  left  corners,  measure 
to  the  right  three-eighths  of 
an  inch,  locate  points  A,  B, 
C  and  D.  From  these  points 
measure  three-eighths  of  an 
inch  to  the  right  and  left, 
and  here  place  dots. 
Model  xi.  Tabourette  in.  From  the  lower  ends  of 

the  vertical  lines  measure  the  same  distance,  place  dots  and 
draw  lines  connecting  these  dots  to  the  dots  above.  Cut  out 
as  indicated  in  Fig.  13,  and  cut  in  on  the  heavy  lines.  Score 
the  vertical  lines,  and  the  lines  forming  the  edge  of  the  lap. 
Fold,  and  glue  to  shape.  Use  the  piece  cut  away  for  the 
back  and  seat. 

Place  this  piece  on  the  desk  with  its  short  edges  parallel 
to  the  edge,  and  draw  a  center  line.  From  the  upper  cor- 
ners measure  down  six  inches,  and  draw  a  line  across.  Cut 
tc  this  line.  Locate  points  A  and  B,  and  from  these  points 
measure  one  and  three-fourths  inches  to  the  right  and  left, 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  CARDBOARD. 


95 


and  here  place  dots.     Draw  lines  connecting  these  dots,  and 
cut  to  the  lines. 

From  the  lower  corners  of  the  paper  measure  up  two  and 
one-half  inches,  place  dots,  and  draw  a  line  across.     Locate 


4". 


- 


Fig.  13. 


Fig.  15. 


96 


RAPHIA  AND   REED  WEAVING. 


point  C.  From  points  B  and  C  measure  to  the  right  and  left 
one  and  one-quarter  inches,  and  draw  vertical  lines  connecting 
these  dots.  Now  from  the  dots  at  ends  of  line  C  draw  lines  to 
the  upper  corners,  and  cut  to  these  lines. 

From  points  1  and  2  measure  in  three-eighths  of  an 
inch.  Measure  the  same  from  the  lower  corners,  and  draw 
connecting  lines.  From  points  1  and  2  measure  down  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch,  draw  a  line  across,  and  cut  out,  as  indi- 
cated in  Fig.  14. 

From  the  upper  corners  measure  in  three-eighths  of  an 
inch,  place  dots,  and  from  these  dots  measure  down  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch.  Shape  the  top  as  indicated,  and  glue 
this  back  to  position.  Use  for  the  seat  of  the  chair  the 
remaining  piece  cut  away. 

Locate  points  A  and  B 
on  the  center  line.  From 
point  A,  measure  one  and 
one-half  inches  to  the  right 
and  left,  and  here  place 
dots.  From  point  B,  meas- 
ure one  and  three-fourths 
inches  to  the  right  and  left, 
place  dots  and  draw  the 
connecting  lines.  Round 
off  the  corners,  as  indicated 
in  Fig.  15,  and  glue  to  posi- 
tion. 

MODEL  XIII. —  BED. 

Material. — Essex  bristol; 
size,  11  in.  x  8  in. 

From  the  upper  and 
lower  left  corneis  measure 
in  for  vertical  lines,  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch,  five 


Model  XII.    Chair. 


CONSTRUCTION  IN  CARDBOARD. 


97 


inches  and  again  three-fourths  of  an  inch.  See  Tig.  16. 
Cut  to  the  last  line.  From  the  upper  corners  measure 
down  three-fourths  of  an  inch,  three  inches,  and  again  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch.  Cut  to  the  last  line.  Cut  in  on  the  heavy 


H 


Fig.  16. 


Fig.  17. 


Fig.  18. 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


lines,  score  all  remaining  lines,  fold  and  glue.  Using  the 
waste  piece,  lay  out  the  drawing  for  the  head  and  footboards, 
as  indicated  in  Pigs.  17  and  18.  Cut  to  shape  and  glue  to 
position. 


Model  XIII.    Bed. 


COURSE  IN  RAPHIA. 


This  course  may  be  introduced  into  the  fourth  school  year, 
but  should  not  be  given  to  the  pupils  until  the  muscles  of  the 
hand  are  strong  enough  to  permit  the  use  of  a  large  darning 
needle  for  sewing.  Kaphia  is  the  inner  fibrous  bark  of  a 
species  of  palm  found  in  Madagascar.  It  is  sold  in  twists, 

varying  in  size  and  weight 
from  two  to  five  pounds, 
and  in  price  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  cents  a  pound. 
Ten  pounds  will  furnish 
material  for  a  class  of  fif- 
teen girls  for  this  entire 
course,  which  may  be 
given  during  the  period 
when  the  boys  have  shop 
work. 

Materials  required  are 
scissors,  No.  5  darning 
needles,  and  raphia. 
As  the  raphia  is  braided  before  sewing,  in  order  to 
facilitate  this,  we  allow  the  girls  to  sit  before  screw  hooks, 
fastened  at  intervals,  in  the  wainscoting,  on  which  they  hang 
the  strand  while  braiding.  As  the  raphia  is  uneven  in  width, 
a  certain  thickness  of  braid  must  first  be  decided  upon  as 
standard  for  each  model,  and  as  many  strands  of  the  material 
used  as  are  necessary  to  plait  a  three-strand  braid  of  the  desired 
thickness.  The  lengths  are  added  by  splicing,  not  by  tying, 
and  each  pupil  may  alternately  plait  and  sew,  as  it  is  not 
necessary  to  plait  the  full  length  needed  before  the  sewing  is 
started. 


Model  I.    Bound  Mat. 


100 


H.APHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 


Small  tags,  to  be  found  at  a  stationer's,  and  costing  about 
ten  cents  a  hundred,  are  marked  with  each  pupil's  name  and 
fastened  to  her  work.  By  using  dyes,  many  artistic  colors 
may  be  produced  and  these  colored  strands  used  for  the  entire 
model,  or  for  sewing,  etc. 

MODEL  I. —  ROUND  MAT. 

The  braid  is  laid  flat  and  sewed  edge  to  edge,  with  a  large 
darning  needle,  and  for  thread  the  finest  strands  of  raphia, 
which  are  not  to  be  used  in  the  braiding,  but  should  be 
reserved  for  sewing.  Have  the  sewing  all  done  on  one  side  — 
and  not  loosely  —  the  teacher  examining  the  work  frequently 
in  order  to  insure  even,  close  sewing. 


Model  HI.    Napkin  Ring. 


Model  IV.    Circular  Tray. 


COURSE  IN  RAPHIA. 


101 


After  serving  to  the  desired  size,  six  inches  in  diameter, 
add  a  border.  This  may  be  made  either  by  sewing  the  braided 
strand  in  single  or  double  points  or  scallops,  or  by  making  a  fringe 
of  the  unbraided  raphia, 
fastening  it  into  the  edge 
with  a  buttonhole  stitch. 
By  catching  the  edge 
together  in  three  different 
places  this  may  be  con- 
verted into  a  very  useful 
basket. 

MODEL  II. TABLE  MAT. 

This  varies  from  Model  I.  in  shape,  being  elliptical,  and 
in  manner  of  sewing,  as  the  braid  is  sewed  together  with  the 
flat  sides  touching,  and  edges  up.  A  complete  set  of  useful 
table  mats  may  be  made,  varying  in  size. 

MODEL  III. —  NAPKIH   KING. 

For  this  exercise  the  braid  is  sewed  together  with  the  face 
sides  touching;  sizes  may  vary. 


Model  V.    EUiptical  Tray. 


Model  VI.    Sailor  Hat  for  DoU. 
MODEL  IV. —  CIRCULAR  TRAY. 

Diameter  of  bottom,  four  inches.  Depth  of  side,  one  inch:' 
If  the  braided  strand  is  very  coarse  the  edges  may  be 
sewed  together;  if  fine,  the  sides  are  joined.  After  making 
the  bottom  the  desired  size,  add  the  side  to  the  depth  of  one 
inch,  sewing  round  and  round  to  the  edge  of  the  bottom,  and 
frequently  allowing  the  stitches  to  pass  through  the  entire 
depth  of  the  side.  This  gives  firmness  to  the  finished  work. 


102 


RAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 


MODEL   V. —  ELLIPTICAL   TEAT. 

Length  of  bottom,  five  inches.     Depth  of  siue,  one  and 
one-half  inches.     Follow  directions  for  Model  V. 

MODEL   VI. —  SAILOE   HAT   FOE   DOLL. 

This  is  started  as  in  Model  III. ,  but  the  braid  must  be 
sewed  flat,  i.  e.,  with  edges  touching.  Trimming  may  be 
added,  either  by  making  a 
braided  band  and  tying  the 
ends,  adding  tassels  of  the 
same,  or  by  using  narrow 
ribbon  for  the  band.  Have 
the  outside  row  double  in 
thickness.  Variety  may  be 
given  to  this  lesson  by  en- 
couraging pupils  to  make 
hats  of  various  shapes,  color- 
ing them  with  aniline  dyes.  Model  vn.  Jewelry  BOX. 

MODEL  VII. —  JEWELEY   BOX. 

If  the  edges  are  to  be  joined 
in  sewing,  the  braid  should  be 
very  heavy,  so  as  to  give  solidity 
to  the  finished  model.  For  bot- 
tom, make  circular  mat  four 
inches  in  diameter.  Add  side 
to  depth  of  two  inches.  For 
cover,  make  circular  mat  to  fit, 
and  hinge  it  to  the  box  by  sew- 
ing loosely,  adding  a  loop  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  cover,  which 
may  be  fastened  with  a  peg  pass- 
ing through  a  loop  projecting 
from  the  front  of  the  box. 

Model  TO!.    Handkerchief  or  Sewing  Box. 


COURSE  IN  RAPHIA. 


103 


MODEL  VIII. — HANDKERCHIEF   OR   SEWING   BOX. 

For  this  model  make  the  bot- 
tom five  inches  long  and  one 
inch  wide  and  add  side  to  the 
depth  of  four  and  a  half 
inches.  Then  add  the  project- 
ing piece  for  flap,  placing  a 
loop  on  the  point  which  is  to 
fasten  over  a  button  sewed  to 
the  bag.  Add  the  braided 
chain  for  hanging,  and  after 
bending  a  double  piece  of  stout 
wire  into  shape  for  a  hook, 
cover  it  with  the  braided  raphia 
by  weaving  back  and  forth. 

MODEL   IX. —  SEWING   CASE. 

For  this  model  two  pockets 
are  made,  one  with  the  bottom 
one  and  one-half  inches  wide, 
six  inches  long  and  sides  four 


Model  IX.    Sewing  Case. 


Model  X.    Letter  Case. 


Model  XI.    Wall  Pocket. 


104 


RAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 


inches  deep  ;  the  other  one  enough  larger  to  admit  of  its  slip- 
ping down  outside  the  smaller, .thus  forming  a  secure  covering 
for  the  scissors,  thread,  etc. ,  usually  carried  on  a  short  journey. 

MODEL   X. LETTER   CASE. 

Length  of  bottom,  six  inches.  Width  of  bottom,  one  inch. 
Depth  of  side,  three  inches.  Sew  into  shape  and  add  back  for 
hanging,  as  indicated  in  the  illustration. 

MODEL  XI.  —  WALL  POCKET. 

Make  oblong  mat  twelve  inches  long  and  eight  inches  wide; 
fold  up  one  end  so  as  to  make  the  front  of  the  pocket  four 
inches  deep.  To  each  corner  of  this  is  fastened  a  braided 
strand  two  inches  long,  the  other  ends  of  which,  being  fas- 
tened to  the  back,  hold  the  pocket  in  position.  Add  braided 

cord  and  tassels  to  the  upper  cor- 
ners for  hanging.  This  is  very 
effective  when  made  of  coarse 
braid. 

MODEL   XII. —  THERMOMETER 
BACK. 

Sew  the  braid  to  fit  the  ther- 
mometer, leaving  a  one-inch  mar- 
gin. Fasten  a  cord  and  tassel  for 
hanging. 

Nail  the  thermometer  into 
position,  using  brass  escutcheon 
pins  and  clinching  the  brads  at 
the  back. 

MODEL  XIII. —  CALENDAR  BACK. 

Sew  back  to  size  for  calendar, 
leaving  suitable  margin.  Glue 
calendar  to  position. 

Model  XII.    Thermometer  Back. 


COURSE  IN   RAPHIA. 


105 


Model  XIII.    Calendar  Back. 


Model  XIV.    Handkerchief  Case. 


Model  XV.    Tray. 


MODEL  XIV. — HANDKERCHIEF   CASE. 

Make  a  braided  square,  eight  by  eight  inches.  Fold  three 
of  the  corners  to  the  center  and  sew  to  position.  Place  loop 
on  the  remaining  corner,  and  sew  a  button  to  the  case  for 
fastening  the  flap  in  position. 

MODEL  XV.  —  TRAY. 

Make  a  square  eight  by  eight  inches.  Fold  all  corners  to 
the  center  and  then  back  again  to  the  outside  edge.  Sew  the 
edges  together  and  fasten  the  corners  down. 


106 


RAPHIA  AND   REED   WEAVING. 


MODEL  XVI.  —  SUNBOKNET. 

The  braid  of  raphia  used  for  the  front  of  this  model 
should  be  very  firmly  and  finely  woven,  and  in  width  be  not 

more  than  one-eighth  of 
an  inch  at  the  edge  near 
the  crown  of  the  bonnet, 
and  but  a  little  wider  at 
the  front  edge. 

In  sewing  the  braid 
into  shape  use  thread, 
with  a  common  sewing 
needle.  The  crown  may 
be  made  of  turkey  red 
muslin,  or  of  any  color  to 
suit  the  taste  of  the  child 
making  it.  The  front 
should  be  fitted  to  the 
dolFs  head.  After  sewing 
in  the  crown,  add  strings 
for  tying,  and  a  bow  for 
the  front  of  the  crown, 

Model  XVI.    Sunbonnet 

MODEL   XVII. — BOOK   BAG. 

Sew  the  braided  raphia  into   an  oblong   piece  fourteen 
inches  long,  five  inches  wide.     Double  the  ends  together,  and 
join  the  edges  by  a  raphia  strand,  braided  and  sewed  on  in 
zigzag   fashion,  leaving  the 
sides   open    for    about    one 
inch,  as   shown  in  Fig.   1. 
Add  the  handles. 

These  bags  may  be  made 
of  different  sizes,  and  used 
for  various  purposes.  Fig. 


COURSE   IN  RAPHIA. 


107 


MODEL  XVIII. —  RAPHIA   DOLLS.    I. 

After  braiding  a  length  of  raphia,  in  thickness  about  the 
size  of  the  little  finger,  cut  it  into  pieces  twice  the  length 

desired  for  the  height 
of  the  doll.  Lay  these 
lengths  side  by  side, 
and  using  a  strand  of 
raphia,  tie  them  to- 
gether around  the  mid- 
dle. Now  double  them 
over  at  this  point,  and 
tie  again,  to  form  the 
head. 

From  this  point 
separate  such  portion 
as  will  be  needed  to 
form  the  arms,  and 
after  measuring  off  the 
waist  line,  tie  here. 
Separate  the  strands 
to  form  the  legs,  and 
if  more  than  one  braid- 
ed strand  is  needed  to 
form  the  leg  of  the 
desired  thickness,  they 
may  be  bound  together 
by  winding  round  and 
round  each  leg  a  strand 
of  raphia.  Clothing 
may  be  fashioned  from 
tissue  paper,  and  the 
dolls  dressed  as  boys 
or  girls.  Eyes,  nose 
and  mouth  may  be 
Model  XYTII.  ^>oiir.  marked  with  ink. 


108  RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 

MODEL   XIX. —  DOLL.    II. 

Many  strands  of  raphia  are  laid  side  by  side,  on  the  desk, 
and  then  tied  together  around  the  middle.      Double  the 


Model  XIX.    Raphia  Doll. 


COURSE   IN   RAPHIA. 


109 


strands  over  at  this  point,  and  tie  another  strand  around  these 
at  the  point  where  the  neck  is  to  be  formed. 

The  size  of  the  head  thus  formed  will  depend  upon  the 
number  of  strands  of  raphia  used.  From  this  point  separate, 
at  each  side,  enough  strands  to  form  the  arms,  and  into  this 
part  insert  fine  bonnet  wire,  one  piece  for  each  arm  (copper 
wire  may  be  used),  and  plait,  in  a  three  strand  braid,  the 
portion  set  aside  for  the  arms.  From  the  remaining  strands 
form  the  body,  and  tie  again  at  the  waist  line,  and  then  sep- 
arate the  strands  into  two  equal  parts.  Now  insert  two  pieces 
of  wire,  each  as  long  as  the  doll  from  head  to  toe,  passing  the 
ends  up  into  the  head,  and  braid  these  strands  to  form  the 


Model  XX.    Shopping  Bag. 


110  RAPHIA  AND   REED   WEAVING. 

legs.  The  use  of  the  wire  permits  the  bending  of  the  body. 
Three  pieces  may  be  inserted  into  each  arm,  and  six  pieces 
into  the  body.  This  will  give  more  firmness  to  the  braided 
strand. 

MODEL  XX. —  SHOPPING   BAG. 

The  making  of  this  model  is  simplified  by  using  a  form 
over  which  it  is  shaped.  To  make  this  form,  cut  two  pieces 
of  heavy  cardboard  to  the  size  and  shape  desired  for  the  face 
of  the  bag.  Place  between  these  pieces  enough  paper  or  cot- 
ton to  form  the  desired  thickness,  and  wind  around  with  cord. 
Having  braided  the  raphia,  sew  together  to  form  an  oblong 
piece,  fitting  the  bottom  of  the  form.  From  the  edges  of 
this  bottom  piece  form  the  sides  of  the  bag,  frequently  placing 
the  work  over  the  form  in  order  to  secure  the  desired  flare  for 
the  sides.  Add  the  length  for  the  handle,  as  indicated  in 
the  drawing. 


RAPHIA  WITH  SLATS,  WIRE,  ETC. 


Materials  used. —  Pith,  raphia,  slats,  wire,  long  wire  hair- 
pins, and  brass  rings  of  various  sizes.  Tools,  one  pair  of  flat 
pliers,  one  pair  of  wire  cutters,  and  a  quantity  of  coarse  darn- 
ing needles. 

MODEL   I. —  MAT. 

The  slats  used  in  this  model  are  six  inches  long  and  one- 
half  inch  wide.  Use  four  strips  six  inches,  and  one  four 
inches  in  length.  Place  one  above  the  other,  with  the  shorter 
one  inside,  and  fasten  them  together  in  the  middle,  using  a 
slender  brad  or  a  large  pin.  This  is  to  be  removed  when  the 
mat  is  finished. 

Now  lay  this  foundation  on  the  desk,  and  spread  the  rays 
equally  apart.  With  the  raphia  weave  over  one,  under  one, 
until  within  one-half  inch  of  the  end  of  the  slats,  and  finish, 
the  end  by  sewing  it  into  the  edge  of  the  mat ;  notch  the  ends 

of  the  slats.  A  second  one 
may  be  made  by  weaving  the 
raphia  to  the  ends  of  the 
slats,  and  then  sewing  the 
edge,  as  indicated  at  Fig.  I. 
The  ends  of  the  slats  are 
notched,  and  below  this 
notch  a  hole  is  bored  (see 
Fig.  I.),  through  which  the 
needle  passes  in  sewing. 
Sew  over  and  over,  until  the 
ends  of  the  slats  are  covered. 

Fig.  1. 


112 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


MODEL  II. — BOOK   MARKER. 

For  the  foundation  use 
kindergarten  "pasting 
slats. "  These  are  ten 
inches  long  and  one-quar- 
ter inch  wide.  Use  two 
strips,  cutting  one  into 
three  equal  pieces,  and 
crossing  as  indicated  at 
Pig.  2. 

With  a  strand  of  raphia, 
begin  at  1  and  weave  over 
1,  under  2,  over  3,  under 
4,  over  5,  under  6,  over  7, 
and  here  change  and  pass 
under  two  slats  (Nos.  8 
and  1);  pass  under  two 
each  time  around  but 
always  make  this  change 
one  slat  ahead  of  the  last 
change,  i.  e.,  under  2  and 
3,  4  and  5,  etc. 

This  is  necessary  when 
using  an  even  number  of 
foundation  rays.  The  work 
would  be  more  simple  if 
an  uneven  number  were 
used,  and  these  fastened 
together  as  in  Model  I. 
Finish  off  by  notching  the 
ends,  and  sewing  the  end 
of  the  raphia  into  the  edge 
of  the  marker. 


Fig.  2.    DetaU  of  Book  Marker. 


BAPHIA  WITH  SLATS,  WIRE,  ETC. 


113 


Fig.  3.    Detail  of  Open  Umbrella. 
MODEL   III.  —  UMBRELLA. 

Material.  —  Corks  (one  inch  long,  one-half  inch  in  diam- 
eter) ;  toothpicks,  beads  and  raphia. 

Tools. —  Brad  awl,  scissors  and  needles. 

Place  the  small  end  of  the  cork  on  the  desk,  and  with  a 
coarse  brad  awl  pierce  holes  around  it  about  one-fourth  inch 
from  the  end,  being  careful  tor  insert  the  brad  awl  at  an  angle 
outward. 

Into  these  holes  are  placed  wooden  toothpicks  ;  these  are 
to  form  the  ribs  of  the  umbrella.  It  is  now  readily  under- 
stood why  the  holes  are  to  be  at  an  angle.  (So  that  the 
umbrella,  when  covered,  will  have  the  correct  slope.)  Cover 
this  framework  with  strands  of  raphia,  proceeding  in  the 
same  manner  as  in  raphia  and  wire  mat.  Fasten  the  end  of 
the  raphia  by  sewing  it  into  the  edge  of  the  work  and  then 
slip  a  colored  glass  bead  over  the  end  of  each  rib.  Insert 
another  toothpick  into  the  large  end  of  the  cork.  This  will 
form  the  handle.  Slip  a  larger  bead  over  the  end  of  the  han- 
dle to  form  the  knob. 


114 


RAPHIA   AND   REEE    WEAVING 


MODEL   IV. —  UMBEELLA.       (CLOSED.) 

Materials. —  Corks,  raphia,  wire 
hairpins  and  glass  beads.  Tools. — 
Needles,  scissors,  brad  awl,  and  one  pair 
combination  pliers  and  wire  cutters. 

With  the  brad  awl  pierce  holes  in 
the  cork,  as  in  the  preceding  model, 
having  the  angle  such  that  the  frame- 
work will  represent  a  partly  closed  um- 
brella. 

Using  the  wire  cutters,  cut  the 
hairpins  into  the  lengths  desired  for 
the  ribs,  and  insert  into  the  holes  the 
ends  of  these  pieces,  thus  forming  the 
framework. 

Now  cover  this  foundation  with 
raphia,  as  in  the  preceding  model. 
Insert  another  length  for  the  handle, 
and  with  the  pliers,  shape  the  end  into 
a  crook. 

MODEL   V. —  BASKET,  WITH   HANDLE. 

Use  for  the  framework  seven  pieces  of  pith,  one-quarter 
inch  wide  and  eight  inches  long,  and  one  piece  five  inches 
long.  - 

Place  a  dot  at  the  middle  of  each  eight-inch  piece,  and 
one  inch  from  the  end  of  the  five-inch  piece;  fasten  all 
together  at  this  dot,  using  a  fine  brad,  half-inch,  No.  20. 
Lay  this  framework  on  the  desk,  and  spread  the  rays  to  equal 
distances.  Draw  a  line  across  the  width  of  each,  one  and 
one-half  inches  from  the  center.  With  a  single  strand  of 
raphia,  proceed  to  weave  over  one,  under  one,  until  the 
pencil  lines  are  reached. 

With  a  sharp  knife  score  these  lines  lightly,  and  from  this 
point  turn  up  the  rays  for  the  sides.  For  the  weaver,  we 


Fig.  4. 
Detail— Umbrella,  Closed. 


RAPHIA   WITH   SLATS,  WIRE,  ETC. 


115 


now  use  a  cnree-strand  braid 
of  raphij,  (tightly  braided), 
and  weave  under  and  over 
until  the  sides  are  two  inches 
deep;  then  fasten  the  end. 

Take  two  strips  of  pith, 
each  one  long  enough  to  pass 
around  the  basket,  one  out- 
side, one  inside,  allowing  for 
the  lap.  Holding  one  end 
of  each  in  place,  proceed 
to  sew,  crossing  the  threads 
at  each  spoke,  and  also  pass- 
ing it  along  from  ray  to  ray, 
as  shown  in  the  drawing. 
Use  a  darning  needle,  with 
a  strand  of  raphia  for  the 
thread. 

For  the  handle,  use  a 
piece  of  pith,  twelve  inches 

jnsert   the   endg 


Fig.  5.    Basket,  with  Handle. 

into  the  sides  of  the  basket,  and,  winding  a  strip  of  raphia 
back  and  forth,  cover  the  pith.  Fasten  the  handle  firmly 
into  the  sides  of  the  basket  by  sewing  the  raphia  across  and 
through,  as  when  binding  the  top. 

MODEL  VI.  —  COVER  FOR  A  DRINKING  GLASS. 

Having  chosen  a  glass  of  suitable  size  and  shape,  use  pith 
one-quarter  inch  wide  for  the  foundation  rays,  and  cut  the 
pieces  long  enough  to  pass  around  the  glass  lengthwise.  The 
number  of  pieces  will  vary  according  to  the  diameter  of  the 
bottom  of  the  glass,  but  must  always  be  an  uneven  number. 
Fasten  all  together  as  in  the  preceding  model,  and  lay  this 
foundation  on  the  desk,  with  the  rays  spread  equally. 


116 


RAPHIA   AND    REED    WEAVING. 


Wet  the  raphia  and  weave  with  a  single  strand,  over  one, 
under  one,  to  the  width  of  the  bottom.  At  this  point,  using 
a  sharp  knife,  carefully  split  the  rays,  and  if  the  spokes  are 
still  too  far  apart  insert  others  at  regular  intervals,  after 
pointing  the  ends.  Now  score  the  pith,  crosswise,  at  point  of 

turning  up  for  the  sides,  weave 
over  and  under  until  the  required 
depth  is  reached,  and  then  bind 
the  top  edge  as  in  the  preceding 
model. 

Make  the  cover,  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  bottom,  as  large  as 
the  diameter  of  the  top,  and  bind 
the  edge,  holding  the  pith  against 
the  thickness  of  the  edge.  Sew 
the  cover  into  position  and  finish 
with  a  loop  of  elastic  cord.  Fas- 
ten a  bead  the  size  of  a  pea  on  the 
basket  opposite  the  loop  on  the 
cover;  for  this,  use  a  fine  brad 
and  clinch  it  on  the  inside  of  the 
basket.  The  loop  should  be  long 
enough  to  catch  over  the  bead  for 
fastening. 

MAT. 

Circular  and  oval  mats,  trays, 
bowls  and  baskets,  may  be  made 
by    twisting     many    strands     of 
raphia   into  a  sort  of  rope,  and 
then  sewing  this  rope  into  shape,  using  the  buttonhole  stitch. 
Taking  as  many   single  strands  as   will  make  a  rope  of 
sufficient  thickness,  wind  these  for  about  six  inches,  with  a 
single  strand  of  raphia. 

Then,  beginning  at  the  twisted  end,  place  it  inside  to  form 


Model  VI. 
Cover  for  Drinking  Glass. 


RAPHIA  WITH   SLATS,    WIRE,    ETC. 


117 


the  center  of  the  mat.  Now  with  a  darning  needle,  threaded 
with  a  strand  of  dampened  raphia,  join  the  successive  rows, 
as  wound  See  Fig.  7.  Hold  the  loose  ends  toward  the 
body. 

In  giving  this  work  to 
very  young  children  it 
will  be  necessary  to  wind 
the  entire  length  of  the 
rope,  additional  lengths 
being  added  by  splicing. 
But  for  the  older  pupils, 
after  the  center  is  well 
started,  it  will  not  be 
necessary  to  wind  further, 
as,  with  the  left  hand, 
the  pupil  can  easily  keep 
the  rope  in  a  sort  of  twist. 
Hold  this  twisted  end 


Fig.  7.    Mat  (made  from  twisted  raphia). 


close    against     the     mat 

until  fastened  into  place, 

and  then  twist  another  length  and  sew,  and  so  on  until  the 

mat  is  the  desired  size. 

BASKET. 

Start  with  the 
twisted  strand,  as 
for  the  circular 
mat.  Make  the 
bottom  of  the 
basket  three 
inches  in  diame- 
ter and  then  form 
the  sides.  Hold 
the  rope  so  as  to 
Fig.  8.  Basket.  form  a  gradual 


118  RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 

flare  to  the  sides,  and  form  the  handle  from  the  one  piece  — 
that  is,  the  handles  are  not  made  separate.  After  both 
handles  are  formed,  continue  the  sewing  until  the  handle  first 
formed  is  reached,  and  fasten  the  end  here. 

It  will  readily  be  seen  that  the  firmness  of  the  finished 
basket  depends  upon  the  firmness  of  the  twisted  rope.  For 
large  pieces  it  will  be  better  to  have  the  rope  about  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 

BUSH   OR   ROPE   BASKET. 

The  basket  shown  in  the  illustration  was  made  from  rush 
which  is  found  growing  in  marshy  regions.  Wire  was  used 
for  the  joining.  A  piece  of  No.  8  reed  formed  the  handle. 
This  was  then  covered  with  a  twist  of  rush  as  shown. 

As  this  material  is  not  always  readily  obtained,  a  basket 
may  be  made  from  rope,  using  wire  or  stout  cord  for  joining. 
Cut  the  rope  into  pieces  twelve  inches  in  length,  and  use  two 
lengths  of  wire,  each  twenty-four  inches  long.  Place  one 
piece  of  rope  on  the  desk  and  pass  both  pieces  of  wire  around 
it  and  cross  the  ends  of  each,  bringing  the  wire  close  to  the 
rope,  and  each  piece  one  and  one-half  inches  away  from  the 
middle,  thus  leaving  a  space  three  inches  between  the  wire. 
Now  place  the  second  piece  of  rope  between  the  wires  and 
again  cross  the  ends  and  proceed  until  the  last  piece  of 
rope  is  added,  when  the  ends  of  the  wire  are  twisted  closely 


I 


/^/^ILZ^Z^L/Z^Z. 

Detail  of  Sush  Basket. 


120  EAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 

and  cut.  The  ends  of  the  rope  are  now  brought  together 
and  the  basket  formed  into  a  boat  shape.  A  wire  is  twisted 
around  the  ends  to  hold  them  firmly  in  position.  The 
foundation  for  the  handles  is  formed  by  a  piece  of  reed  (No. 
8)  fourteen  inches  in  length.  This  is  covered  with  a  twist  of 
rope  which  may  be  brought  over  the  wire  which  binds  the 
ends  together.  If  stout  cord  is  used  for  joining  it  will  be 
necessary  to  tie  it  after  each  piece  of  rope  is  laid  in  place,  as 
the  cord  will  not  hold  the  rope  so  firmly  as  the  wire  will. 

Baskets  of  similar  shape  but  larger  size  may  be  made  from 
cornstalks  when,  of  course,  it  would  be  better  to  use  wire  for 
joining. 

CUFF   AND   COLLAR   BOX. 

Material. —  Pith,  one-quarter  inch  wide,  and  raphia. 
Dampen  the  pith,  and  form  a  circle  five  inches  in  diameter, 
from  one  end.  The  pith  is  now  wound  in  a  spiral,  to  form 
the  sides  of  the  box,  which  should  be  about  five  inches  in 
height.  The  raphia  is  used  for  joining  the  pith,  as  shown  in 
the  illustration.  It  must  be  damp,  and  used  with  a  coarse 
needle.  The  bottom  of  the  box  may  be  made  of  circles  of 
thin  wood,  or  of  heavy  cardboard,  and  in  either  case  holes  are 
bored  near  the  edge  of  the  circle,  and  this  is  sewed  into  the 
edge  of  the  box. 

For  the  edge  of  the  cover,  join,  separately,  two  circles  of 
pith,  as  in  the  sides  of  the  box,  and  for  the  top  of  the  cover 
use  a  circle  of  cardboard,  covered  with  raphia.  To  cover 
this,  cut  a  hole  in  the  center,  and  work  in  buttonhole  stitch 


Detail  of  join  of  2d  and  3d  rows. 


&APHIA  WITH   SLATS,    WIRE,    ETC. 


121 


around  the  outer  edge,  passing  the  thread  through  the  hole 
in  the  center. 

Join  this  covered  piece  to  the  edge  of  the  cover,  by  sewing 
through  the.  ridge  formed  by  the  buttonhole  stitch.  The 
bottom  of  the  box  will  present  a  neater  appearance  if  it  is 
covered  in  the  same  manner.  A  ring  is  placed  on  the  top  of 
the  cover.  This  is  formed  of  tightly  braided  raphia,  or  by 
covering  a  small  brass  curtain  ring  with  a  buttonhole  stitch, 
as  in  napkin  ring. 

After  passing  once  around  with  the  raphia,  the  thread  is 
brought  up  between  2  and  3,  over  3,  and  then  down  in  front 
of  2,  and  between  the  looped  stitches ;  it  is  then  brought  out 
between  2  and  3,  and  back  over  at  A,  forming  a  knot,  and  so 
on.  This  makes  a  very  durable  and  effective  join. 


Detail  of  join  of  first  two  rows  of  side  of  Cuff  Box. 

Pass  the  raphia,  with  a  buttonhole  loop,  over  strip  No.  1. 
Bring  the  end  of  the  thread  through  this  loop,  and  over  strip 

No.  2,  then  down  behind 
No.  2,  and  back  over  the 
thread  at  B.  Then  carry 
it  ~back  of  No.  2,  and  up 
over  it,  and  here  form 
another  buttonhole 
stitch.  Bring  the  end 
around  No.  1,  at  D,  and 
here  form  another  loop, 
and  proceed.  It  will  be 
noticed  that  the  loops 

Detail  of  Top  of  Cover  for  Cuff  BOX.       alternate  on  either  side. 


122  RAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 

FRAME. 

From  a  square  of  cardboard  cut  a  circular  frame,  using 
five  and  one-half  inches  for  outside  diameter  and  two  inches 
for  inside.  Cover  this  with  raphia,  using  the  buttonhole  stitch 
as  in  detail  for  cover  of  cuff  and  collar  box.  After  the  open 
framework  is  covered  glue  another  circular  piece  to  the  back. 
Use  braided  raphia  cord  for  hanging,  or  make  an  easel  back. 


Detail  of  Rings. 
RINGS. 

Rings  for  various  purposes  may  be  made  from  pith,  round 
or  split  reed.  For  napkin  rings  use  the  split  reed  (No.  8),  or 
pith  (No.  5).  Make  two  rings  of  the  same  size  and  join  the 
ends  of  each  by  lapping  and  wiring.  The  ends  should  be 
trimmed  down  with  a  sharp  knife  so  that  the  join  will  be 
smooth.  Now  wet  a  strand  of  raphia  and  thread  it  through 
a  coarse  needle.  Hold  the  two  rings  side  by  side  and  join 
them  by  passing  the  raphia  over  the  under  one,  in  between  the 
two,  under  the  top  one,  and  then  bring  the  end  to  the  front 
and  over  the  top  one,  in  between  the  two,  behind  the  lower 
one,  back  again  to  the  front,  in  between  the  two  and  so  on, 
being  careful  to  lay  the  raphia  on  closely  and  evenly.  This 
will  make  a  very  smooth  covering. 

Larger  rings  for  use  in  "King  Toss"  or  with  "  Grace 
hoops"  may  be  made  by  using  No.  8  (or  heavier)  round 
reed.  Form  into  rings  by  splicing  and  wiring  with  fine  wire. 


RAPHIA  WITH  SLATS,    WIRE,    ETC. 


123 


They  are  covered  with  raphia  in  the  same  manner,  but  the 
appearance  is  made  more  pleasing  to  the  child  by  coloring  the 
raphia  before  using.  This  may  easily  be  done  by  using 
4 'Diamond  Dyes." 

EAPHIA,   With   WIKE. 

By  using  wire  as  a  foundation,  over  which  the  raphia  is 
woven,  many  artistic  articles  may  be  made.  Copper  wire, 
being  very  pliable,  is  often  used  when  the  pupils  are  too 
young  to  manipulate  the  heavier  iron  wire.  In  size  it  should 
not  be  too  fine,  that  of  the  lead  in  an  ordinary  sized  lead  pen- 
cil being  about  right.  The  flat  mat  is  chosen  for  the  first 
lesson,  and  the  wire,  having  been  cut  to  an  even  nrmber  of 


Detail  of  Raphia  and  Wire  Mat. 

desired  lengths,  is  crossed  at  the  center,  and  held  between 
the  thumb  and  forefinger  of  the  left  hand,  while  with  the 
right  hand,  the  strand  of  raphia  is 
carried  under  one  ray,  brought  up 
and  carried  back  over  the  top  of  the 
same,  and  then  across  from  the  under 


124 


RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 


side  to  the  next  spoke,  as  shown  in  the  detail.  This  throws 
the  covered  wire  up  on  top,  in  the  form  of  a  ridge.  When 
finished,  the  ends  of  the  wire  are  bent  over  the  mat,  to  pre- 
vent the  raphia  from  slipping  off.  A  fringe  is  added  by 
looping  doubled  strands  of  raphia  into  the  edge.  Either  side 
may  be  used  for  the  top. 

RAPHIA,   WITH    WIRE   HAIRPIKS. 

By  using  heavy  wire  hairpins,  substantial  foundations  for 
many  pieces  of  dolls'  furniture  may  be  made.     The  hairpins 

are  firmer  than 
the  copper  wire, 
and  may  easily  be 
cut  by  using  a 
pair  of  wire  cut- 
ters, and  bent 
into  any  desired 
shape  with  a  pair 
of  flat  pliers. 


Details  I.  and  II. 


RAPHIA   WITH   SLATS,    WIRE,    ETC. 


125 


The  different  parts  of  the  framework  should  be  joined 
firmly  by  using  fine  wire,  and  after  the  foundation  is  secured 
it  may  be  painted  or  not.  If  the  entire  framework  is  not 
painted,  it  will  be  necessary  to  wind,  with  raphia,  the  parts 
not  covered  by  the  weaving. 

Tables  (oblong,  square  or  circular),  chairs,  of  all  styles, 
hanging  baskets,  basinets,  etc.,  etc.,  may  very  easily  be 
made. 

BASINET. 

In  making  the  basinet,  bend  the  hairpins  for  the  ends,  as 
in  Detail  L,  using  two  hairpins  for  each  end  piece.  After 
bending  to  desired  shape,  wire  these  pieces  together  with  fine 
wire,  and  then  wind  with  raphia. 

Detail  II.  In  order  to  strengthen  the  framework,  a  cross- 
piece  is  placed  at  the  bottom,  as  seen  in  the  drawing,  and  the 
ends  are  brought  up  to  near  the  top  of  the  uprights,  and  here 
bent  down,  so  as  to  form  a  hook,  on  which  the  basket  is 
hung. 

Detail  III.  The  framework  for  the  basket  is  formed  by 
using  copper  wire,  and  then  covered  with  strands  of  braided 
raphia. 

MATCH   HOLDER. 

Materials.  —  Baphia,  wire 
brads  (3  in.,  No.  14),  small  can 
of  red  "carriage  paint/'  wood 
(pine  or  white  wood),  3  in.  x  3 
in.  and  ^  in.  thick,  ruler  and 
compass.  Find  the  center  of 
the  square  of  wood,  and  de- 
scribe a  circle  two  inches  in 
diameter.  Into  this  circle  drive 
an  uneven  number  of  long, 
slender  brads,  being  careful  to 
have  equal  spaces  between  the  Fig.  10.  Foundation  for  Match  Holder 


RAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 


nails,  and  to  stand  them  so  that  the  heads  point  out^  thus 
making  the  top  larger  than  the  bottom. 

Now,  with  strands  of  raphia,  weave  under  and  over  until 
the  heads  of  the  brads  are  reached,  and  here  fasten  the  end  by 
sewing  it  into  the  edge  of  the  holder.  While  weaving,  each 
additional  strand  needed  is  added  by  splicing  (i.  e.,  by  placing 
the  end  of  the  new  strand  back  alongside  the  end  of  the  last 
strand),  and  not  by  tying.  This  model  is  made  more  attract- 
ive by  painting  the  foundation  before  the  raphia  is  woven  in. 
In  this  case,  the  work  cannot  be  completed  in  one  lesson,  as 
time  must  be  given  for  the  paint  to  harden. 

Baskets  of  different  sizes  may  be  made  by  using  larger 
squares  of  wood  and  brads  of  the  same  or  longer  lengths. 

The  appearance  of  the  base  is  improved  if  the  edge  is  bev- 
eled. To  do  this,  draw  a  line  on  the  face  of  the  wood  one- 
quarter  inch  from  the  edge,  and  lines  on  the  edges  one-eighth 

inch  from  this  face. 

Bevel  to  these  lines, 
either  by  placing  the 
wood  in  a  vise  and  plan- 
ing to  these  lines,  or  by 
using  a  knife.  Cut  the 
edges  away  to  these  lines. 
Finish  to  the  lines  with 
sandpaper. 

ELLIPTICAL    BASKET. 

Materials.  —  Eaphia, 
wire  brads  3  in.  long,  and 
red  paint;  basswood,  6;^ 
in.  x  4#  in.  x  fe  in. 

Tools. — Scissors,  rule, 
compass,    needle,    knife, 
hammer,  twine, 
rig.  11.  For  the  bottom  of  this 


RAPHIA  WITH  SLATS,    WIRE,    ETC. 


127 


basket  use  basswood,  $6  in.  thick,  6%  in.,  long  and  4^  in. 
wide.  Size  of  the  ellipse  to  be  6  in.  x  4  in. 

Draw  lines  both  lengthwise  and  crosswise  the  middle  of  the 
board.  From  the  point  of  intersection  of  these  lines,  lay  off, 
on  the  long  diameter,  three  inches  to  the  right  and  left, 
points  A  and  C,  and  from  the  same  point  lay  off  two  inches, 
above  and  below,  points  B  and  D  on  the  short  diameter. 

"We  now  have  the  length  and  width  of  the  ellipse.  Set  the 
compass  with  a  radius  equal  to  one-half  the  long  diameter 
(3  in.),  and  placing  the  needle  point  at  point  marked  for  out- 
side limit  of  short  diameter,  describe  arcs,  cutting  the  long 
diameter  at  1  and  2.  See  Fig.  11.  Now  place  one-inch  brads 
at  points  of  intersection  1,  2,  and  at  D.  Tie  a  piece  of  stout 
thread  around  the  brads,  slipping  it  down  close  to  the  wood. 
Now  remove  the  brad  at  D,  and  place  a  pencil  at  this  place, 
and  move  it  around  on  the  wood,  keeping  the  point  close  to 
the  string,  and  so  describe  the  ellipse.  Now  cut  to  this  line, 
using  a  sharp  knife.  Draw  another  line  around  the  ellipse, 


Fig.  12.    Elliptical  Framework  for  Basket. 


128 


RAPHIA   AND    REED    WEAVING. 


one-half  inch  from  the  edge,  and  into  this  line,  at  every  half 
inch,  drive  wire  brads,  three  inches  long,  or  longer,  if  desired. 
Paint  this  foundation  with  red  or  blue  carriage  paint,  and  set 
aside  for  twenty-four  hours. 

Braid  raphia  into  a  fine  and  close  strand,  and  weave  around 
these  brads,  as  in  match  holder. 

NAPKIN    RING. 

Take  ten  brass  curtain  rings  about  one  inch  in  diameter, 
and  cover  each  one  of  these  rings  with  raphia,  worked  on  in 
buttonhole  stitch.  See  Figs.  13  and  14.  No  needle  is  needed, 


Fig.  13.    Detail  of  Covered  Ring. 

as  this  can  easily  be  done  with  the  fingers.  After  the  ten 
rings  are  covered,  join  these  by  lapping,  as  in  Fig.  15,  and 
passing  a  ribbon  (one  inch  wide),  up  through  the  ring  at  A, 
and  down  through  B,  up  through  C,  and  down  through  D, 

and  so  on,  until  all 
have  been  joined,  when 
the  ends  of  the  ribbons 
are  to  be  tied  in  a 
double  bow.  Other 
sizes  of  rings  may  be 
covered,  according  to 
the  width  desired  for 
the  napkin  ring,  or  the 
Fig.  14.  Detail  of  Covered  Rine.  width  mav  be  formed 


RAPHIA   WITH   SLATS,    WIRE,    ETC. 


129 


Fig.  15.    Detail  of  Napkin  Ring. 


by  sewing  together  two  or  more  of 
the  covered  rings,  and  then  join- 
ing, to  form  the  length,  hy  run- 
ning a  ribbon  through  each  row, 
lengthwise,  as  when  forming  the 
ring  one  row  wide. 

Instead  of  ribbon,  a  five-strand 
braid  of  raphia  may  be  used  for 
joining.  This  is  plaited,  as  in 
Fig.  16. 

HOLDER    FOR    BURNT     MATCHES. 

Having  obtained  a  glass  of 
suitable  size  and  shape  take  as 
many  brass  curtain  rings  one  inch 
in  diameter  as  will  pass  around  the 
glass,  after  being  overlapped  as  in 
Detail  No.  IV.  for  the  napkin 
ring.  Cover  the  rings  as  in  De- 
tail Nos.  VII  and  II.  for  the  same 
model.  After  having  plaited  a 
five-strand  braid  of  raphia  pass  it 
through  these  rings,  as  in  Detail 
III.,  and  suspend  by  a  long  loop 
of  the  same. 


Fig.  16.    Detail  of  Five-Strand  Plait. 


RAPHIA   AND   REED   WEAVING. 


LETTER   CASE. 

For  the  foundation  of  this 
useful  model  obtain  a  wire  sponge 
basket;  (a  single  one  costs  five 
cents).  After  covering  the  loop 
woven  on  in  buttonhole  stitch, 
wind  the  wire  reaching  from  the 
loop  to  the  back  of  the  basket, 
and  cover  in  this  same  manner 
the  top  edge  of  the  rack.  It  will 
be  necessary  to  cross  the  strand  of 
raphia  at  the  point  where  each 
upright  wire  joins  the  top  edge. 
This  is  necessary  in  order  that  all 
the  wire  may  be  hidden.  Cover, 
also,  the  wire  forming  the  lower 
edge  and  then,  with  a  strand  of 
wet  raphia,  begin  at  the  lower  ends 
of  the  upright  wire  and  proceed 
to  weave  the  raphia  around  the 
framework.  Do  this  in  the  same  manner  as  in  covering  the 
wire  foundation  for  the  circular  mat.  This  may  be  woven  so 
as  to  throw  the  ridge  on  either  side,  as  desired.  Trays  for 
the  dresser  may  be  made  from  wire  soap  dishes,  and  by  cover- 
ing the  wire  holders  used  for  ginger  ale  bottles,  and  placing 
a  glass  inside,  very  pretty  vases  may  be  made. 

KKOT   WOEK. 

The  following  simple  exercises  are  made  in  chain  stitch, 
with  the  fingers,  without  the  aid  of  a  crochet-hook : 

HOKSE     REINS. 

Use  a  piece  of  soft  twisted  cotton  twine  and  in  length 
three  times  that  desired  for  the  finished  work,  i.  e.,  four 
and  one-half  yards  of  twine  for  a  finished  length  of  one  and 
one-half  yards.  Be^in  by  forming  a  loop  in  one  end  by  knot- 


Model  XVII. 
Holder  for  Burnt  Matches. 


RAPIIIA   WITH   SLATS,    WIRE,    ETC. 


131 


Fig.  18.    Wire  Foundation  for  Letter  Case. 

ting.  Hold  this  knot  between  the  thumb  and  finger  of  the  left 
hand  and  use  the  right  hand  to  pull  the  twine  up  through  this 
loop,  carefully  keeping  the  free  end  toward  the  right  hand. 

Tighten  or  shorten  this  loop  by  pulling  on  the  side  toward 
the  knot.  This  forms  the  chain  stitch.  Continue  to  the  end, 
being  careful  to  have  the  work  uniform  in  thickness  through- 
out the  entire  length.  The  cross-piece  is  made  separate,  and 
to  this  the  bells  are  fastened.  String  the  bells  to  this  piece 
by  passing  a  finer  cord  in  and  out  the  meshes  and  through  the 
bells  at  the  point  where  they  are  to  be  fastened  to  the  cross- 
piece,  and  then  on  to  the  end. 

The  ends  of  the  piece  used  for  stringing  are  to  be  fastened 
into  the  main  one,  together  with  the  loose  ends  of  the  cross- 
piece.  These  ends  are  woven  in  and  out,  and  then  fastened 
down  by  using  a  needle  and  strong  thread. 


132  RAPHIA  AND  REED  WEAVING. 

WHISTLE   CHAIN. 

For  this  exercise  use  No.  20  twine.  Knot  for  the  loop  so 
as  to  leave  the  short  end  about  three  inches  long.  Proceed  as 
for  the  reins,  and  when  the  chain  is  of  the  desired  length, 
finish  by  working  a  chain  stitch  down  the  length  of  the  short 
end,  and  to  this  fasten  the  whistle. 

CHAIN  FOR  SCISSORS. 

A  chain  for  hanging  scissors  may  be  made  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  whistle  chain  or  by  plaiting  a  three-strand  braid 
with  double  or  triple  strings,  care  being  taken  to  keep  the 
strings  perfectly  flat  while  working.  This  plait  may  be  used 
by  itself  and  the  scissors  fastened  to  the  end,  or  by  using  brass 
curtain  rings  it  can  be  made  the  same  as  napkin  ring.  (See 
raphia  work.) 

MINNOW    NET. 

For  the  framework  use  a  piece  of  round  reed  six  feet 
in  length.  Double  this,  and  at  the  doubled  end  form  a 
hoop  by  winding  the  remaining  ends  firmly  together,  using 
cotton  twine,  No.  60.  This  will  form  the  handle.  For  a  net 
one  foot  deep,  cut  the  twine  into  four-feet  lengths.  Double 
these  pieces  and  passing  the  loop  up  and  through  the  hoop, 
bring  it  over  to  the  outside  and  pass  the  ends  through.  Loop 
on  the  remaining  lengths,  leaving  not  more  than  one  inch 
space  between  each  piece.  Beginning  at  any  spot,  take  an 
end  from  each  adjoining  pair  and  tie  a  simple  knot.  Con- 
tinue around  the  hoop  in  this  manner.  Then  begin  on  the 
next  row,  and  so  on,  until  you  have  the  net  ready  to  shape  the 
bottom  for  finishing.  Now  knot  the  strings  a  little  closer 
together,  and  cut  off  one  string  from  every  fifth  pair.  Con- 
tinue to  knot  as  before  until  you  come  to  the  fifth  one,  and 
here  take  a  string  from  each  side  of  the  single  one  and  knot 
these  two  together  with  the  single  one  and  then  cut  off  the 
single  string.  Continue  in  the  same  manner  with  the  remain- 
ing ones,  cutting  more  .frequently,  until  the  bottom  is  the 
requisite  shape. 


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